Moledo – Viladesuso 20km – El Camino de Santiago

Moledo was a nice little town. I had a nice couple of pints outside a wee bar while waiting to get checked in to my albergue. Portuguese take their siesta between 1-3pm and I arrived at two so the woman behind the bar (who looked like the grumpy old witch in every childhood book I remember reading) was in foul mood but served me anyway. By good luck I was able to order in portuguese as the oul fecker didnt understand a word of English (unlike 90% of other Portuguese),

Anyways I got my two beers and then the hostel host Joana turned up and showed me to my bed. I was sharing a room with Jane from Cardiff, Menora from Japan and another girl that was staying two nights but was out somewhere. I had good craic with Jane and Menora kept trying to talk to me yet she hadn’t a clue what I was sayin.

I went to a seafood restaurant by the beach and ordered some Bacalhau and batatas fritas. Bacalhau is a special type of cod that is quite salty but very tasty. It took 45 mins to cook and I was losing the will to live when the waiter brought down this monstrosity of a cod covered in oil, breadcrumbs and onions. An absolute feast that I could only put a minor dent in.

Anyways, today I took a shortcut along a forest and caught a boat to the opposite side of the river from Caminha. It only took about 5 mins to cross and ‘Marty’ the Spanish sailor blasted me across the river to a beach where I joined the Sendoral (spiritual) trail of 4km to A Guarda.

When I got to A Guarda, i met Jane in a cafe getting bacon eggs and toast. I had to have some of that as I had been walking for an hour without breakfast.

Jane went on her way with me following shortly after along the sendoral way to join up with the Costal way again.

The coastal way today was very spiritual today for me. I felt like I had a heavenly presence beside me as I walked along the coast. I had seen this bit of path in my dreams before so knew it was meant for me.

I also seen about 5 houses with number 13 prominently displayed on them since Portugal. 13 is my lucky number and my birthdate so I believe it was a sign that I was destined to do this trail.

Entering Spain, I noticed that it felt more like the French Camino that I had completed. People were more friendly and everyone says buen n caminho or buenos diaz. It felt more like the camino I knew.

Miles clicked in and I ended up in Oia. I met a Canadian woman called D who I talked with for a big part of today’s travelling. She had walked from Lisbon and had badly hurt her foot and had a medical boot on. She was a tough wee woman who could talk til the sun went down.

I had 4km to walk to Viladesouso, so I had a nice beer changed my socks and went on to Viladesuso to meet Stevie again. We had a nice dinner then a few beer back at the albergue before hitting the hay.

Thats two days now where the trail has been really enjoyable and very beautiful. We‘ll get to Santiago yet!!