Well I got home a little frustrated with this Camino, so I took this week to look at all the pictures and revisit the moments those pictures captured.

My conclusion now is that I have been comparing this journey to much to my previous one along the French Way. I don’t think this is fair at all as the French Way is the most popular by a country mile and has much more infrastructure because of its popularity.

The Portuguese Way will probably not provide the personal transformation I was looking for simply because it only takes 11/12 days to complete. The French Way took me 33 days. The first week or two I was only getting my body adjusted to the aches and pains of every day walking with a backpack. Weeks 3 and 4 were mentally challenging in overcoming battles such as being away from home, keeping focused on continuing to Santiago and also overcoming some personal problems which led me to do the camino. The last week was then a combination of all and having a spiritual experience all the way to Santiago.

On the Portuguese route, by the time I got to Pontevedra my body had well adapted to the aches and pains and I was ready to fly, but realized it was only three more days to Santiago. This frustrated me. I needed time to get my head right and I wanted to enjoy Santiago this time.

Santiago for me is a very healing place. The pilgrims finishing their caminos just creates a special buzz about the place. This buzz then spills into the local restaurants and cafes in the narrow streets and you can’t help but smile and be happy soaking up that energy.

I done this Camino with Stephen who has told me he thoroughly enjoyed the experience, which I am very happy about. I did tell him before we went that it is his journey and to do as he pleases, and I hope I gave him enough space in the end to do his thing. You couldn’t meet a nicer, more laid-back fella to do a camino with and was glad to catch up with him when he entered Santiago plaza. And we finally got a couple of Guinness together too in the ‘irish’ bar watching the champions league final.

This time I didn’t meet as many ‘camino family’ as the pilgrims were mostly younger germans and dutch or older American groups that kind of stuck to themselves. We did however meet some crazy characters and will keep in touch.

Damira was a big croatian dude with a big loud voice and did not care who he offended. But he was great entertainment all the same.

Then we met Lindsey and Caeley from New Hampshire. We bumped into them one morning walking and ended up walking with them the whole day and going out for dinner and drinks that evening. This night was probably my favourite memory of the Camino. I never laughed as much in a long time. Tho I’m surprised I didn’t wake up the next morning with a broken shoulder as Lindsey kept throwing mean little punches at me for making fun of her. 🤣🤣 It was great to see them meet up with Stephen in Santiago before he left.

Unfortunately I had to leave Santiago before the girls arrived to get a plane to Sevilla then a connecting flight back to Dublin. A whole days travelling and when I actually got to Dublin, and boarded a bus home, Stephen had just landed and got the next bus. I’ll catch up with him when I get home and get rested.

Like most people who love running as a hobby, Stephen loves a statistic or two, but probably the hardest task on this Camino was to get him to change from miles to km. At home we use miles but nearly everywhere else in Europe its KM and day after day I heard him talking to pilgrims asking how many miles they were walking only to get that confused look lol. To be fair towards the end of the camino he changed his watch to read km instead so I’m hoping the next time we go out for a walk/run km will still be used. 🤣

So to sum all this stuff up. If you are considering doing a camino and need a change in life or transformation, go do the French Camino. 5-6 weeks of challenge and wonder. If you just need a two week walking break then I would recommend the beautiful and quieter Portuguese Camino.

For me, the longer the challenge the better. Comparing these two caminos is like comparing running a marathon or running a 10k. Very different types of races but most will prefer one or the other.

I’m already thinking about doing the Camino Primitivo in 2-3 years time which is supposed to be the toughest one going over mountain ranges. But there are loads of others to choose from too.

I will have to take my wife Marissa on one soon though as she has been my rock through all my adventures. Always there to pick me up when I mentally batter myself up. My daughter Jamie Lei sending sweet messages to me all the time always helps too.

Also a small mention to my good long time friend Scalesy who always brings a smile to my face with his jokes and like-minded humour.

And lastly my mum, dad, Nigel, Esther, Maisie and Shadow who are always there for me regardless.

I missed them all more on this camino than the last one and will be forever grateful for their encouragement and support.

Adios for now folks. Sleep tight!

So I haven’t posted last two days as I was enjoying just living in Santiago, grabbing the odd coffee, beer, tortilla, and sampling some of the delicacies of Galicia.

I still believe I made the right decision for me in getting the train from Pontevedra and have no regrets not walking the final three days. I didn’t get to stay in Santiago long enough after my first Camino and I regretted that a bit. Now I have fulfilled this desire and really loved the place.

The buzz along the narrow streets, groups singing and playing traditional music, pipers belting out tunes all day. Hard not to enjoy.

On Friday I met up with a group of ladies from Emyvale and had a good few drink with them in an ‘Irish bar’. I was simply sitting waiting for dinner when I heard this broad accent that sounded very much like a Tyrone accent. When I ordered more food they heard my accent and turned around to talk to me. We had some good gossip and were about to leave when the staff told us to sit down as there was ‘drink’ coming.

So we waited and then the lights were turned off. This spanish man started growling out some kind of pagan-like chant and stirring a liquid in a flaming bowl.

We all got a cup each of this warm liquid. Some of the girls couldn’t drink it so I ended up with three! Hard to describe the potion. Kinda like whiskey but more liquer. Anyways I threw them down me and thought nothing of it.

Well I remember going to the Irish bar for a few drinks with the Emyvale girls, but when I left the door at closing time I do not remember a single thing and woke up fully clothed lying in my bed with two half eaten bars of snickers melting under my shirt 🙈🙈

Stephen arrived just before 12pm yesterday and I made my way to the cathedral square to meet him. On the way I seen Santiago true blues warming up for the twelfth!

Stephen arrived looking tired after starting his 25km walk at 5:30am. Like everyone who finishes a camino, emotion are running high and you have to just take a wee moment and take it all in.

We met the Emyvale girls for coffee before getting his certificate and then took a wee walk around town and got something to eat.

We checked in at the hotel and had a snooze/rest for an hour or two then went up town to watch the champions league final.

As I had to leave early this morning to get my flight to Sevilla, Stephen lay on and then went into town and met the New Hampshire girls again who had just finished.

It was great to see them meet up again and I was a little disappointed I couldn’t be there too but hey ho thats the way life goes! We’ll keep in contact thats for sure.

Ahh No! I didn’t walk 64km in one day. I got up and decided I had enough of this camino so walked to the train station and got a 20minute train to Santiago. Best decision ever!

I can’t quite put my finger on it exactly but this camino just didn’t do it for me. It was probably more beautiful than the French Camino and I had some awesome walking days, but maybe I’ve changed or others have changed, I just never got the same buzz as the French Camino.

With only 3 more walking days to go and with only a few minor towns to go through I just thought whats the point. Three days of meh! Or just go straight to the jugular of Santiago. Absolutely buzzing city and I felt better the second I left the train station.

I toured around the city and took plenty of pictures, but won’t post them yet as my amigos on this camino have never been to Santiago yet so I won’t put a spoiler out.

Spent the afternoon organising a flight home on Monday (via Seville) and then headed out for a lovely pizza and beers at a little taberna.

Now I’m writing this sitting in the best craft beer bar in the world drinking Wonderwall New England IPA. The barman recognized me instantly from two years ago when I sampled the whole menu in one sitting and left the bar stammering. 🙈

I’ll have a few more here and then hit the hay. I might travel in the train to meet Lindsey and Caeley tomorrow as I won’t see them before I go home. For me they have both been the icing on the cake for this camino and have restored my faith that there are still normal people in the world who just love a laugh.

I’ll post the Santiago pictures on Saturday when Stephen arrives and see it for himself.

Nighty night folks! 🙏🏻

Short one tonight folks as I am tired, didn’t have a great evening and just want tomorrow to begin and I can get a step closer to Santiago.

Lovely trail to Pontevedra and thoroughly enjoyed the walk apart from large groups getting in the way, only walking small parts of the camino and staying in luxury hotels instead of getting the real camino experience. The magic happens in the albergues. You meet people from all over the world and hear their stories and form friendships.

When we got to Pontevedra, we stopped for a beer and this massive bird landed and watched over us. Scary lukkin hoor!

Checked into our hostel and then went out to a bar around the corner where our American friends Caeley and Lyndsey joined us for drinks with a Swedish dude Ludvig. I enjoyed meeting up with Lyndsey and Caeley as they are married woman with kids and understand the stresses and pressures and worries of being a parent. We have some great conversations.

We tried to find a restaurant and Google maps led me round the world when the selected restaurant was only about 100m away 🙈

Lyndsey then found a nice wee place where we got tapas and a few drink. But thats where my night turned sour. First my blood sugar went low and I had no energy, after food I was ok, but then my company started talking about politics which I absolutely detest. For me politics and religion are the root of all evil in the world so I tapped out of that conversation quite quickly.

I’m writing this blog sitting outside a nice wee bar and having a double (maybe treble- spanish measures) Jamesons, trying to bring some tranquility back to my inner rage. Its working!! 🤣

I came on this camino to get away from all the bullshit that happens across the world and also to get away from the idiotic politics that exist in my job. A camino is a personal journey and I don’t mind people talking about things that interest them, but please excuse me if I don’t participate in conversations on politics or religion.

Off to Caldas de Reis tomorrow and I am walking on my own. Stephen wants to go solo tomorrow and I am also happy with that. 3 more days to Santiago.

Nighty night ❤️

Well we left Vigo a little late this morning after a cracking night out for dinner with our American friends Lyndsey and Caeley. Perhaps a few too many drink were taken and I certainly needed a kick start to get me going.

Free breakfast at the hotel included black coffee, a croissant, slices of cheese and ham and a pineapple yoghurt that may not even have been a yoghurt it was that disgusting. Oh and cornflakes with warm milk out of the coffee machine 🤢 We were too late for any good stuff!

Leaving Vigo seemed to take forever and a day. Soo many long streets and roads to cross. I couldn’t wait to get out of Vigo as I thought it was a horrible city. (Apart from the restaurant we ate at). Everyone seems to smoke here, theres a rudeness with the locals, and the place is not kept very clean. I found it very fitting when we came across a cafe dedicated to Liverpool FC. Stephen being a Liverpool man thought it was great! Thankfully he was also keen to get out of Vigo and didn’t want to stop in it. I couldn’t have denied the oul divil either!

We eventually got out of the city and faced a tough wee climb into a lovely forest trail that went on for miles. It was nice to just wander along and take in the views of the Vigo harbour from above. We passed some interesting buildings and a couple of water fountains along this trail before descending into Redondela.

With just 2km to go I decided we were stopping for a quick pint, and we were welcomed by this group of Irish ladies who we met in Portugal. I had forgot about them completely and was wondering why the fuck this bunch of older women were waving and walloping at us. Then I recognised one of them and remembered, giving them a big wave and a smile!

After our beer we quickly walked the final 2km out to the albergue for the night. Traffic is crazy in these small Spanish villages so keeping alert is essential as I believe they would knock you over.

Our albergue is a lovely private house with a few dorm rooms. It seems to be mostly Germans staying here but they are mostly friendly and speak fluent english.

We walked to a local restaurant and got fed some sausage and chips (Salchipapa) for dinner. Hard ta beat with a wee bottle of beer!

Tomorrow we walk to Pontevedra in the countdown to Santiago. Hopefully an early start and get there early so we have more time to chill!

Sayonara!

Today went quickly. Stephen booked accommodation for tonight and when he checked it this morning he realised he had booked the wrong dates so he quickly got another hotel booked in the centre of Vigo instead. It was two km further than we had originally planned so handy enough.

Coming out of Sabaris we ran into a street market and bought some of the nicest fruit you could taste. Then when we walked through the neighbouring town of Ramallosa we bumped into two American ladies Lyndsey and Caeley from New Hampshire and walked the whole way to Vigo with them. We swapped stories of our families and upbringing etc and the km’s flew in. Lyndsey took charge of the job of finding a cafe that was open. Everywhere seemed to be closed due to Youth Day in Spain.

We found one and had a nice coffee with some small pieces of tortilla and a muffin bun.

Onwards we headed up through some marvellous trails up a small mountain stopping by at beautiful features like small waterfalls and views of the nearby Cies Islands. Lyndsey and Caeley are going there tomorrow for a day trip.

We continued on through forest trails until we came to a town where we had a nice lunch and a beer. Only 7km to go to Vigo and it went in super quick. Good company makes the days go faster for sure.

When entering Vigo we went past Celta Vigo’s stadium which is getting renovations done at present and is starting to look really well.

We eventually got to our hotels navigating the many streets of Vigo. The ladies went one way and we went the other but ended up in hotels 2 mins walk from each other.

We are washed and ready to go out for a few pints now then dinner at 7 or 8.

A short days walk tomorrow with 14km to a place called Cesantes which is just north of Redondela. So we might get a much needed lie-on tomorrow after a week of 7-8am starts.

Catch up tomorrow folks.

After getting a back and neck massage by the hostel massage therapist Matthias last night I woke up feeling a lot more relaxed today. My shoulder gave me minimal pain today and still feels good now while I write this.

Today went very quick and after a first 5km we stopped at a cafe playing good ol’ rock music. ZZ Top, Def Leppard and even a bit of Deep Purple. I could feel the head just nodding to the beat.

It was great to get a good ol’ Spanish cafe con leche and a bit of Galician almond tart!

Stephen then headed for the spiritual route path while I stuck to the road path which finally led to a fabulous foresty mountain hike. This was my kind of hiking and reminded me a little of the river path up Slieve Donard at home.

No one could touch me going up the little mountain. Anyone who has ever walked with me knows that I always speed up when faced with a climb. I love the muscle burn a good climb brings.

Going down the mountain again, there were some quite steep descents so I started into a slow and steady trail run with an 8kg backpack on 🤪

I got down to Baiona in no time, made a quick stop in a church/chapel and then walked along the sea front looking at all the boats in the quays until I found a nice little pavement cafe overlooking the quays.

A cerveza grande was ordered, and in generous Spanish tradition a wee slice of tortilla was served also as a treat. Tortilla brought soo many memories of the french camino back in those couple of bites. I’m loving the Camino again and I think the Spanish people and custom know how to make it special.

I arrived at my albergue at 12pm and it wasn’t open to 1pm so just had to walk down the street and get another beer whilst I waited. Just had to!! Stephen arrived shortly after I checked in.

We got dinner in a nice wee restaurant and are now settling down for the night in our bunk beds with privacy curtains. (Fancy!!)

We make our way towards the city of Vigo tomorrow and are staying in an albergue just a km or two before Vigo centre. I think its 19km walk tomorrow so should be there by lunchtime. Adios amigos. Night night!

Moledo was a nice little town. I had a nice couple of pints outside a wee bar while waiting to get checked in to my albergue. Portuguese take their siesta between 1-3pm and I arrived at two so the woman behind the bar (who looked like the grumpy old witch in every childhood book I remember reading) was in foul mood but served me anyway. By good luck I was able to order in portuguese as the oul fecker didnt understand a word of English (unlike 90% of other Portuguese),

Anyways I got my two beers and then the hostel host Joana turned up and showed me to my bed. I was sharing a room with Jane from Cardiff, Menora from Japan and another girl that was staying two nights but was out somewhere. I had good craic with Jane and Menora kept trying to talk to me yet she hadn’t a clue what I was sayin.

I went to a seafood restaurant by the beach and ordered some Bacalhau and batatas fritas. Bacalhau is a special type of cod that is quite salty but very tasty. It took 45 mins to cook and I was losing the will to live when the waiter brought down this monstrosity of a cod covered in oil, breadcrumbs and onions. An absolute feast that I could only put a minor dent in.

Anyways, today I took a shortcut along a forest and caught a boat to the opposite side of the river from Caminha. It only took about 5 mins to cross and ‘Marty’ the Spanish sailor blasted me across the river to a beach where I joined the Sendoral (spiritual) trail of 4km to A Guarda.

When I got to A Guarda, i met Jane in a cafe getting bacon eggs and toast. I had to have some of that as I had been walking for an hour without breakfast.

Jane went on her way with me following shortly after along the sendoral way to join up with the Costal way again.

The coastal way today was very spiritual today for me. I felt like I had a heavenly presence beside me as I walked along the coast. I had seen this bit of path in my dreams before so knew it was meant for me.

I also seen about 5 houses with number 13 prominently displayed on them since Portugal. 13 is my lucky number and my birthdate so I believe it was a sign that I was destined to do this trail.

Entering Spain, I noticed that it felt more like the French Camino that I had completed. People were more friendly and everyone says buen n caminho or buenos diaz. It felt more like the camino I knew.

Miles clicked in and I ended up in Oia. I met a Canadian woman called D who I talked with for a big part of today’s travelling. She had walked from Lisbon and had badly hurt her foot and had a medical boot on. She was a tough wee woman who could talk til the sun went down.

I had 4km to walk to Viladesouso, so I had a nice beer changed my socks and went on to Viladesuso to meet Stevie again. We had a nice dinner then a few beer back at the albergue before hitting the hay.

Thats two days now where the trail has been really enjoyable and very beautiful. We‘ll get to Santiago yet!!

Oh and I put Newtownstewart on the map at the albergue! 😉

I put on my man pants today and got up at 6:30 am and was out the hotel door at 7:15. The new shoes had me bouncing about the streets of Viana trying to find a way out of the bloody place. A few wrong turns and probably an extra km going back on myself, I finally got trekking on the cobbles out of the city into beautiful pathways to Carreço.

I was on fire today. Really loved the trail and was flying past a whole bunch of other pilgrims. I don’t know why but pilgrims on this camino are nowhere near as friendly as the French one. Simply walking past you without a ‘bom camino’ or even a glance. The older folk are ok but the younger ones are not so friendly.

I battered on to near Vila praia de Ancora before I sat down for a bite to eat and a coffee.

I then joined the coastal path all the way to Moledo. The coastal path was very windy and a tad cold. As I was eating up the path today I tried to cancel the accommodation so I could go a bit further to Aguarda across the river. But my accommodation wasn’t refundable so I’m just gonna stay in Moledo tonight and get up early tomo and walk to A guarda to meet up with Stevie again.

After I got checked into my albergue, i had a shower to wash all the dirt and sweat but the water was ice cold. It actually helped my feet recover from today. Might head out to the pizzeria tonight to satisfy my hunger. But right now my phone has hit me twice in the face as I fell asleep briefly writing this. Doh!!

Today I had a lazy day. My feet needed a rest and I had a fair bit of nerve pain in my shoulder from carrying the rucksack and previously from slipping on the front door step and landing on awkwardly on my arm back in November. It’s really feckin sore after a long hike and I can’t even hold a pint in my hand without losing my grip.

Anyways I checked out of one hostel and went basically to the street behind me to check in to a hotel room for the same price as the hostel. Hotels in Uk and Ireland are ripping us off completely!

Went to explore Viana do Castello and found it a very pretty town- see pics below

I was feeling miserable today and got a strong feeling of wanting to go home. I didn’t understand why. Apart from missing my ladies and family at home there was something else bugging me. So far the Portuguese camino wasn’t a patch on my experience on the French Camino two years ago. The pilgrims seem fewer and more reserved. Maybe I was blessed and picked with a bunch of brilliant characters on the French Camino, or maybe because I had already done a camino and arrived at Santiago previously. The desire left me today. After a couple of calls to my wife Marissa, my daughter Jamie Lei and my best buddy Scalesy, I am going to batter on tomorrow and reach Moledo. I had planned to go to Caminha just 4km further but its really expensive there so no!

Just a few weeks ago on a 20km trek through Gortin forest I met a local man who had lived in Spain and told me to visit Moledo because it was special. I take these little conversations as signs that I am meant to do. So Moledo it is.

I done a bit of research on shoes for camino and the Merrell Moab 3 walking shoes were highly recommended. I bought a pair for this camino but as the sole is very solid my feet have taken a battering on all the cobbles on this camino. This morning I went to a endurance sports store and the fella that owned the shop had me trying on all sorts of trail running shoes and giving first class advice. Eventually I settled on the Asics Trabuco Max 4 as they are bouncy as hell, fit like a glove and are going to absolutely destroy any cobbles tomorrow.

I can always use the Moabs for any mountain trails I may encounter.

Stevie made it to Moledo today and is crackin on to Oia tomorrow so I have a bit of catchin up to do, but don’t worry this old turtle has legs that go long and far and a mind that can overcome anything so the newbie will be caught before Santiago 🥾🥾🥾🥾🥾

Early start tomorrow so gonna finish these three ‘cartons’ of red wine and wish you all a peaceful sleep tonight!

Obrigado & Boa Noite

Gman