Right ye hoors yez, I’m in a right foul mood tonight. I was looking forward to this evening because my beloved Man Utd were playing in the Europa League Final against spurs and put on the most pathetic final performance I’ve ever seen. A team I have supported since birth and enjoyed amazing success in the 90s and 00’s and have now fallen so far I don’t even recognise them. No fighting spirit, no awareness, laziness and selfishness has rotted this team to the core. Spurs score one pathetic goal and United have no answer. Glad to see Big Ange win a trophy. Legend of a character and unfortunately will lose his job mainly because of the pressure of the English press. Assholes!
Anyways back to today’s adventure. started about 8am from esposende and trekked 26km to Viana do Castello. Stephen lost his toothbrush somewhere so got another one in a shop nearby.
You can take a man out of Omagh ….
The walk today was a mixture of cobbles and woodland walks. After a nice breakfast of cheese and ham baguettes and coffee, we had quite a nice wee gradient to climb before a lush forest path that led to beautiful scenery and a river crossing.
We went past some lovely little churches, stopping of for a breather and a wee prayer for our good fortune and our families health.
We walked on and fell in with a Croatian dude who was very funny and had a funny view of life. He walked with us to Viana do Castelo before splitting but would love to meet with him again.
We went to an Irish Bar at 6pm hoping to get some grub before the game, but it was closed. So we went to a fancy looking restaurant across the street called Pico Pico and got two marvellous steak dinners. Off we went back to the Irish Bar again to watch the match only to find that they don’t have Guinness 🤣🤣 Krombacher it is then!
Tomorrrow we are scheduled to go to Caminha but I think i’ll take a rest day and explore Viana. Stephen wants to continue on to Miledo so we might go separate ways tomo for a change and meet up again in a day or two. the camino is your own journey so u gotta make the most of it.
Started out fresh today at 7:30 am and walked the 23km to Esposende.
For the first three quarters of the walk it was all boardwalk and boring as f*#k. Scenery was dung and I was craving for a beer. Even at 9am.
We finally come to a small cafe and got some coffee and a croissant and bocadillo (ham and cheese bap).
Following on we walked for i’m sure 7 km until we came to a hidden cafe. Had a beer and some freshly squeezed orange juice and met a few irish women from limerick. we had a good bit of craic with them in the cafe and then moved on.
The walk today was a bit boring for me and I struggled mentally to cope with the scenery or lack of anything interesting. So I will just post my photos from today and see what happens tomorrrow.
After a bit of a lie in this morning we finally got going about 9am and went to visit Se Cathedral in Porto. Lovely looking building distinct with its use of the blue and white Azulejo tiles. I thought it looked really well with the stonework.
We then decided to get an uber to the coastline to start the walk. It’s a 6km walk out of the city and the traffic within was crazy busy and very noisy so neither of us wanted to endure an hour of that. From Foz do Douro we walked on a good mix of cobbled pavement and creaky boardwalk stopping off at the odd cafe for some food and a drink or two. The weather was perfect. Not too hot but plenty of suncream had to be applied.
With the waves crashing off the rocks and the strong smell of seaweed in the air, we made our way to Vila do Conde passing numerous cafe/restaurants that all seemed to look the same. Square shaped buildings with large South-facing windows and a dozen or so tables out side with a large burgundy ‘Superbock’ umbrella on each. With the never ending boardwalk, deja vu happened again and again.
We finally got to the albergue (Cachinnans) at 7:30pm tired and with aching feet. Thankfully no blisters but byjaysus I’ll be sore tomorrow. Hobbled out for a pizza and a pint and now lying in my bed trying to stay awake to write this blog at 10:30pm.
We’re going to start earlier tomorrow and trek the 22km to Esposende. Might actually walk in the sea for part of it and keep the feet cool.
Wile sorry I have nothing more exciting today but it’s hard work being a bluffer! Oops I meant blogger. Adueus!
Just arrived at the airport. Flew through security for once and I would highly recommend purchasing fast track security at any airport. For as little as £5-6 u just jump the queue and get to the bar first.
First things first, went looking for a Boots or similar to purchase a shaving blade and a pair of scissors. Some peregrinos like to just let the beard grow for their entire camino, not for me. I like to be able to apply suncream to a clean face and wash it off again. I’m hoping we do actually get sun in Portugal/Spain and not thunderstorms like it has been recently.
Anyways, after a boring bus ride down from Omagh, we’re here now in The Guinness Bar getting a liquid second breakfast. Flight doesn’t go for another 2 hours so what else do we do 🤷🏻♂️.
See yous in Porto! 🍺🍺🍺
Update: flight delayed by 2 hours!!! 🙄 Ryanair! 🙄😆🙄🙄
Well we got there eventually and checked into the Nice Way Hostel on Riu do sampaio Bruno. A very large hostel with its own bar. We went up street to find a nice street bar and got one that becomes a nightlclub later on. Two pints ordered but by jaysus did the glasses stink of a french latrine. Gulped it down like a pro on Get me outa here, and went back to the hostel for a few nightcaps. Nearly 200 people can stay in this hostel and all I hear is English and German accents. Gonna start early tomo so night night folks. Chat tomo! ❤️
Its Wednesday 14th May 2025, and I’m starting this blog again for anyone who is interested in my gallivantations!!
This Sunday the 18th March, I am heading off by bus from Omagh Bus depot to Dublin airport and flying to Porto in Portugal to start another Camino de Santiago. I should be starting in Lisbon, but this year I don’t have the same amount of time off work, and its known to be a bit boring between Lisbon and Porto anyway, so I’m starting in Porto and walking to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
After my constant blethering in the car about the 5 week Camino de Santiago (French Way) on manys a Sunday heading to Belfast to football training for Transplant NI, my good friend Stephen Maguire has decided to walk this one with me.
Say hello to Stephen ☺️
(Crackin tune that Mr Brightside!)
Stephen, like myself has had a kidney transplant and is a counsellor from Omagh. Although I’ve never had a counselling session with him, I can definitely say that he’s a great listener and apart from being a Liverpool fan, has a sensible head on his shoulders and likes to keep things in perspective.
We are hoping to walk to Santiago in approx. 11-12 days depending on injuries, health and the odd hangover day. The majority of this walk is relatively flat and hugs the Atlantic coastline until the border with Spain where it goes all green and lush (and probably lashing with rain) in the beautiful Galician Provence. I recall two years ago walking through Galicia, the smell of eucalyptus was unreal. I also recall how the price of a large beer almost doubled! 🤨
Anyways I have a backpack to pack before Sunday and gladly I’m taking much less this time. The Camino always provides.
After a great sleep the night before, I got up early and got packed up. I was to help Bengt get to the airport and get his flight home, then wait in the airport for my own flight.
We got a taxi and got checked in at the airport and got some breakfast.
Bengt’s departure arrived fairly quick and we said our goodbye’s and agreed to keep in touch. I do hope to meet him again sometime as he is a fantastic person. He just told me over breakfast that he built a business to help mis-directed youth’s back into employment and living more peaceful lives. His passion was helping others and he was able to make a rewarding career out if it.
I waited patiently for my boarding gate to appear on the screen. It appeared one hour later and I went to the gate to wait. Then the dreaded ‘Delayed’, sign came up. I thought not again, after years of getting delayed at Bristol and Luton airports while working for The National Trust and NHBC, it couldn’t possibly happen again and put a spoiler on my homecoming. Thankfully it was only delayed for an hour and then we got going. No more Buen Caminos, cafe con lechés, bocadillos or tapas, but at least I was going home to my family and my home.
I had a bus ticket for the 3hour journey home my local bus depot in Omagh where my wife and daughter would pick me up. Just out of curiosity I checked the ‘findmyipbone’ app to see where my family was that day. I seen my wife’s phone moving swiftly towards Aughnacloy. She was coming to Dublin to lift me!! So, I sent her a text saying I was staying in Santiago as I wanted to meet up with someone. Like a gazillionth of a millisecond later my phone was ringing and it was my wife Marissa. I didn’t answer!! I waited a minute and then sent her a text saying I was only joking and that I was just on the plane waiting to go. 🤣🤣🤣 I could only imagine the response as either pure rage or panic. Pity I didn’t have dash-cam!
Anyways I got to Dublin airport and was waiting for the doors of the aircraft to open to get moving. I always book a seat at the very back of a plane as you nearly always get in and out of the plane quickly at the rear door. I kept looking back for the door to open then realised there was no rear door and I had to wait for all the rest of the passengers to get out first. Doh!!
I came into arrivals for a lovely little welcome home from my mum, wife, daughter and my good friend Daniel. I was so happy to see them.
When we got home, my dad was waiting at my house for another lovely welcome hug. We had some champagne and cake before going to bed exhausted. 🥱💤
Its great to be home. I will miss everyone I’ve been with on the camino over the last 35 days and hope to keep in touch with as many as possible, but you can’t beat being at home with your family when they’ve all missed you so much.
I hope you have all enjoyed my journey and I hope I didn’t offend anyone with some of the language and comments in my blog – some of which will have to be edited.
This journey has taught me a lot about myself and about other people and values. I hope I can introduce some of these values into my real life and become a much better person. God Bless All ❤️
I had a trip booked to Fisterre, and Muxia today and had an early-ish start at 9am. Thankfully I didn’t go out last night after all or this could have been a struggle. Bengt had also booked the same trip and we met at my hotel to walk to the pick-up point.
It was great to be sitting in a bus for a day and not having to walk too far, but my legs had an unwanted energy in them and it was difficult to relax them.
First stop was a place called Negriera. I missed the explanation of what it was but it looked interesting and took a few photos.
Next stop was Muxia. This was my main reason for taking the bus trip. The scenery was amazing and I took a good 15minutes to sit on the edge of the rocks and watch the waves.
Muxia, I’m told, was the name of a group of monks who had a chapel in the area many centuries ago. There is a chapel on the rockshore called “Santuario de Virxe de Barca” I had a look inside and loved the place
St James was trying to teach Christianity to the locals in this area without success, so the Virgin Mary appeared on a ‘stone boat’ to comfort him. There are some stones near the chapel that are said to be the remains of the stone boat. Legend has it that if you walk around the stones 9 times you will be cured of something or other. Well, being brought up as a presbyterian and being told that Mary was a virgin and arrived on shore on a stone boat just didn’t quite convince me to walk around a stone 9 times. Like come on!!! I’ve just walked 800km and admittedly thats probably a little crazy, but I still have half a brain that can help me figure some things out on my own. 🤷🏻♂️
Anyways it was lovely to experience this place. It really is a very tranquil place and yes I did say a wee prayer for my family and friends – something I found giving me a little internal peace on this adventure.
Next stop was Fisterre. A lovely harbour town with lovely expensive cafe’s and boats galore belonging to the wealthy. I went searching, without success. for a supermarket in the hope that I could buy an Apple charging lead as I had to borrow one from a German lady in the busy. She was so kind to give it to me but was extra grumpy in demanding it back at this stop. It was a Sunday and there was some kind of festival/march on in the town with fireworks going off left right and centre in broad daylight. It sounded like I was caught in a war-zone and quickly looked around to see if anyone was scattering. Panic over! Keep on eating my expensive pizza!
I met up with Korean Chan, who I walked with several times in the first few weeks. Chan and his girlfriend where having a very adventurous meal of squid or something.
We said our goodbyes and goodwills and back on the bus again to the “edge of the world”. Cabo Finisterre. Nice location but not a patch on Muxia.
There were a few other stops at a waterfall, an Horreo – (an ancient way of storing animal grain- this one was the longest in Spain at 32m long- and not an animal in sight 🤦🏻) and a stop at an old church that had been demolished several times by the French and rebuilt again. It was a nice trip but myself and Bengt kept dozing off to sleep in the bus as the Spanish guy drilled on and on about Galicias history. He asked me a question about the percentage of forestry in Ireland- Do I look like the kinda person who knows every statistic going in my country?? Google it sir and the truth will be told 😝
We got back at 6:45pm and I texted my Austrian friend Christian to see if he wanted to catch a beer. Christian just finished today and we met up for a couple. It was great catching up on his journey. He’s a very funny guy.
Back to the hotel then to get my stuff ready for going home. The load of my pack decreased by about 2.5kg due to the stuff I left behind. Went to my bed and fell asleep instantly. Tiredness is catching up on me very quickly.
I am writing this a day late as I never got a chance to write yesterday. Sooo many people to catch up with.
So I started the day by getting up early and setting off at 7am. 18km to gobble up and get to Santiago asap. Didn’t meet too many people I knew and stopped at a couple of cafe’s for food and drink. About 6km to go, my friend Jonathan caught up with me and we walked into Santiago together. As we walked in through the outskirts of the city you could feel the buzz. Suddenly the spires of the Cathedral could be seen in the distance and loads of people were marching towards it.
We walked towards the tunneled entrance to the cathedral square and could hear the bagpipes in full flow. Not too long now.
We finally got there. I looked up at the cathedral and just felt amazed by it all. There were loads of people already in the square with local Spanish groups all singing and marching into the square. This was it. 800km of hiking, sharing dorms with complete strangers from all over the world, attending to injuries and blisters, making friends and leaving them behind to make new friends, searching for accommodation, multiple boozy nights and pure grit to get through each day – all done!!
From speaking to people who had walked from St Jean, most were of the opinion that it was almost an anti-climax to finish. We all enjoyed each others help and company along the way that in fact, I haven’t met anyone who wanted to go home. Most are only going home because they miss their family or have jobs to do.
I went to the Mass at 12pm and really enjoyed the experience. It was mostly in Spanish language but you kinda got the drift. I was exceptionally lucky to witness the Botafumeiro – the spreading of the incense in the cathedral. What a magic experience it really was.
When Mass was over I met a lot of people I knew from various stages including Kylie who had just done the last 100km+ with her husband who had flown out to join her. They are a great couple and of course we had to get one last selfie
About 10 minutes later who did I see but my old pal Bengt, who had got up early and arrived before most. We went to a restaurant and had a fabulous salad and a beer. Then Jonathon joined us too.
We went to get our compostela’s and then left to get cleaned up at our albergues/hotels.
On my way back I heard a crowd shouting my name and looked over- it was another group of married couples just a little older than me, who I had spoke to nearly every day at different stages. They kindly bought me a couple of pints before splitting for dinner. The craic was mighty though with American lady Tonja telling us a story about her knicker accident 🤣🤣
After getting checked in and cleaned up, I met Bengt at a craft beer bar for a couple of pints of a strong IPA. Then we met Jonathon at an Italian restaurant for pizza.
Everyone feeling exhausted we went to our beds then. Myself and Bengt were booked on a trip to Fisterre (End of the world) and Muxia and had to be on the bus at 9am. Jonathon had already booked his own trip so would not be coming with us. I got back and thought, don’t be a sad-sack, you’ve just done 800km, go out and celebrate. So I looked up google for some clubs and found one playing dance music. Spruced myself up and decided to write my blog before I went out. Well that was the end of my party night! I fell asleep writing and woke up at 6am this morning fully clothed on top of the bed. 🙈 I always do this!! My wife Marissa used to be angry with me for falling asleep on the living room sofa and then coming to bed at the crack of dawn. Now she just lets me carry on as I do it that often 🤪
All in all I enjoyed today. To finally reach Santiago in 33 days is good going. If I had to do it again I definitely would not hire a bike. That was just too painful and I hated being a nuisance to the walkers when they had to step aside on the trail to let me past. I would do it at this time of year again but would change about half the gear I had on this camino, and maybe bring a bigger backpack just for comfort of packing things and taking them out. My 33L Osprey Talon pack was superb but it was always so tightly packed and took too much time to pack it correctly.
I’m going to do a page on gear when I get home on Monday. Just some advice on what I have experienced with different gear. Bye for now! 😴
After a nights kip in the room with the giant dutch girl snorting and sneezing all night, I was last to get up and get packed. It rained very heavily last night and I thought it couldn’t rain much more, but oh no, it poured all morning. I put on some shorts and a technical t-shirt and then a poncho over the lot. Head down and get the km done.
I soon ran into KH and we walked most of the way. I enjoy talking to KH as he is quite intelligent and an absolute gentleman. I also noticed today that he loves to take care of his gear, which is something I have always done. We walked til we met up with Jonathan and Bengt. Before we stopped at a cafe for a beer, and KH walked on. I kind of wanted to walk on with KH just to get the job done but I also like having a beer at this time of day. I pressed on myself after the beer just to get the walking finished for the day. Bengt and Jonathon do not walk as quick as I do so I left them behind.
Not a lot to see today other than the usual pathways and a few other eye-catchers.
I got to O Pedrouzo in good time and went straight to the laundrette to wash my wet stinking clothes. Then checked into my room for the night and got cleaned up. Went out with Bengt, Jonathan and Ted and Sarah from USA for dinner. We went to a nice restaurant called Taste the Way and ordered our starters, when those were finished we attempted to order our main course but were told that it would take a long long time as they only take one table order.
Ted was pretty furious and gave the manager a piece of his mind. We decided to leave and go to a burger bar for our main course. A little french lad working in the cafe took our order. At first I thought he was drunk as he was acting weird and was spilling knives and forks all over the place. Then I realised that perhaps he had some kind of disability and I felt ashamed of myself for thinking otherwise. Quite a bit of drink was taken then we all went to our albergues. I started writing this blog but then fell asleep and woke up at 6am. Time to get up again 🙄. Buenas Noches
El Camino de Santiago 