Leon – Hospital de Órbigo 30km

Before you all start crapping yourselves, No I’m not in hospital, its just the name of the place. I probably should be in hospital because of the distance I’ve covered and the amount of beer, wine and croissants I’ve ate, but no I’m lying in my sleeping bag with a full tummy and writing this damn thing!

Today I left León at 7:45 and had to walk about 5k to get out of the city. I was sad to leave this city as it is a wonderful under-rated place. I was supposed to stay at the Parador hotel in Leon which is the big fancy hotel that the cast of ‘The Way’, stayed at near the end of their journey. Leading up to last week it was £200 to stay at this parador for one night. Checking at the start of this week it had jumped to £375. One thing I’ve learned on this Camino is that we don’t really need luxury. A sleep in a well run albergue can be just as rewarding with the people you meet and the excellent hospitality provided. So on seeing the price hike, I just decided no. That amount cannot be justified on a pilgrimage or in real life.

So on I walked and got a bloody good look at the place instead. The walk today is still part of the Meseta and is a long flat road that will test the weak minded. I stopped at a stall along the way taking donations for drinks and foods and got my picture taken in a cardboard cut out of an ancient pilgrim. I met up with Pete and Megan from New Zealand again and walked with them for a while.

Going through La Virgen del Camino, I thought I’d better call in and see the Santurio de la virgin del camino – a fancy chapel in other words. It was a beautiful building.

We reached the village of San Miguel Del Camino where there was a nice little cafe I decided to stop in. I hoped that I could have a San Miguel in San Miguel Del Camino. Not a chance! The best I got was a small tin of Estrella which is quite nice so it softened the blow.

I met Kylie again and walked with her a little while before I stuck some music on and got into my rhythm. With about 7km to go I felt a hotspot on my heal and stopped in a cafe to take a look at it. Two blisters on my left heel. I only get blisters when the soles of my shoes are done. It creates an imbalance and leads to friction on a part of my foot. I quickly wrapped it up and put some moleskin tape on it- great for blisters.

On my way again it was a slow 7k to Hospital de Orbigo. When I finally got there I was delighted to see such a delightful looking town that seemed to be preparing for a festival or parade.

Got checked into my albergue (Albergue San Miguel a recurring theme today – and No I didn’t actually get a San Miguel) which was a nice little place with a good warm shower. I got my dinner in a restaurant called Los Angeles. A three course peregrino meal with a bottle of red wine for 14 yoyos. I shared the wine with a fellow peregrino Shaun from Oxford. We had a good chat and then went back to our albergues for the night.

Its going to be a slow 20km to Astorga tomorrow but hopefully I will be able to get new trainers and get back to pain free walking. Buenas Noches! 😉

Leon – Leon 3km (trying to find where I am staying)

So today was a rest day, so I got up at 8am and got a generous breakfast in my hotel but half way through this Spanish girl starts blowing her nose continuously. Now, everybody has to blow their nose but fuck me how much snotters have ye got up there. I was trying to eat a Tortilla (pastry filled with eggs and spuds) and all I could taste was snot. I moved quickly on to my americano and a mini croissant followed by a small glass of delicious fruit. Snot face was still in full action. Her father was barking at her in Spanish but I can imagine it was something like, “go outside and blow your nose properly you disgusting little girl”.

Drama over, I checked out of my room and had polished off a litre of a water bottle from last night. After doing the tour of the cathedral I stopped at a bar I had the red wine at yesterday. They were really busy and were pretty ignorant with the cups and saucers in preparation. The Spanish lady grunted at me “que quires” which means “what do you want”, so I pointed out which drink I wanted, a Liptons lemon iced tea. She slammed the drink on the counter and carried on with her orders. I was aftaid to ask how much so just set 3 yoyos on a plate for them. If it was more, call the fucking police!! I went outside and sat on a stool and took my drink. Five minutes later the lady came out and brought me a big basket of Doritos with mayo and a spicy sauce. I tried to explain I had left money for her and she turned and smiled and said “de nada”. No problem. I think she appreciated my patience and gratitude. It always helps to put yourself in another persons shoes and appreciate their stresses. Only when you do that, can you try to help the situation.

Enough with that philosophical shite. Anyway I visited the Cathedral and took about 100 photos. I’m only going to show you a select few. The place was amazing but maybe not as emotional as Pamplona cathedral. I said a wee prayer for all of my family and friends who have some problems in their lives and paid a euro to light up half a dozen candles.

After the litre of water, two coffees, a Lipton ice tea and a tour of the cathedral I was bursting for the loo. I thought I’d try and check in to my hotel early and go there. As the receptionist was checking my passport and stamping my credencial I was doing a merry dance trying to hold it in. Got my key, into a lift that took forever and run around a labrynth to get to my room, I opened the door and headed straight for the bathroom. Undone the buckles and aaaggghhh! Relief! About ten seconds in I realised I was pissing in the bidet and the toilet was behind the door. Bursting out in belly laughs I struggled to keep it all in the bidet. When finished I wiped up the spilled stuff with toilet paper and what did I do? Yeah threw it in the bidet! 🙈 Obviously I transferred this to the toilet before flushing. What a start!

When I got settled into the room I decided to walk around town and look for some new trainers as my Hoka’s are starting to wear out and cause foot minor problems. I was walking two minutes when I heard someone say “Graham”. I looked around and it was Kylie from USA. I met Kylie on the second day in Roncesvalles at dinner. We had met up a couple of times on trail and I was very happy to see her. We went for a meal and had a good oul chit-chat and polished off a bottle of red wine. When we were leaving there was very loud thunder and heavy rain. Kylie asked the bar staff, who were shutting up for siesta, if we could stay and have one more drink and they kindly obliged. We made a run for it after the drinks and got back ok.

I went to my hotel room and slept for a bit. Tried watching Man Utd on my phone but I really can’t be bothered keeping up to date with unimportant stuff anymore. The Camino has taught me a lot of things about life, and I have taken good note of the things that really matter. Immediate family, close friends who support you always, and having a roof over your head. My family know that I hate gardening, but I have found a hunger to make my home the best it can be, like so many of the buildings I have seen on this journey. I can’t wait to go back home and enhance my own home.

I went to a local brewery called The Four Lions in León. They make a good selection of craft beers. The first one I tried was a scotch ale called Founders Dirty Bastard – kinda like me coming into town yesterday. Its a very heavy ale based on the Oat stout ales we get in Ireland. Then it was a double IPA called a Marabunta. Very very nice. In fact so nice I stumbled away from the brewery and used Google Maps to locate my hotel just 75yards away.

Thats all today folks. I hope you have enjoyed my adventure so far and its all grinding it out from here on in. 💪🏻🤪

Mansilla Mayor – León 17km

Today was all about getting the job done and getting to the wonderful city of León.

I had dinner and drinks with Roger and Sue from Alberta and had some good conversation. Sue’s knee seems to be completely banjaxed so they are getting a taxi to León to hopefully see a physio.

After a lovely send off from the albergue hospitalero – (I called her Mama as she couldnt do enough for me, carrying toast and coffee and a big lump of madeira cake to me as I sat for breakfast), with big hugs and blessings, I set on my way out of the village to join the camino again.

I soon met up with Pete and Megan from New Zealand who I met yesterday and we walked a few miles together to the next town. I stopped for a drink whilst they walked on. Its becoming a recurring fight with myself to avoid a pint of beer at about 10am every morning as I walk through new towns. The locals, when they get their lazy butts outa bed, seem to just sit outside and drink all sorts. In the cafe’s there is always a couple of beer pumps condensing in the heat, and always one dam biker who is sat on his fat lycra covered ass drinking a beer at an outside table. Yeah you need it fat chops! How about switching off that wee electric motor and actually cycling for once!! (Rant over)

There wasn’t much to see until I got to León and boy did it impress. A very busy city, immaculately clean and spilling over with historic buildings.

I checked into the hotel, got a lovely shower and headed out to do a bulk of washing after having to wear a stinky shirt today. I looked like some dirty oul scouser, sorry, scrounger walking into this la-de-da hotel.

I popped up the street in the hunt for the Cathedral. This place was buzzing. Stag and hen parties, locals sitting having the craic at tables with fancy umbrellas. I came to a big square where the locals gather for some entertainment every weekend. This seems to be a great trend in Spain where all the locals love getting together and cooking food, playing music and watching the children play. We could learn a thing from these guys. No fighting, arguing, selfishness or command, just togetherness and fun.

I eventually caught site of the cathedral spire and followed the streets towards it. Wow! What a building. I’m definitely doing the tour tomorrow.

I sat outside a bar and had a spittle of vino tinto just marvelling at the architecture of such a building that was first built in the 13th century. I always love gothic styled buildings, and this one was dreamworthy. The Cathedral is open tomorrow morning so I’m definitely going to have a look inside it.

Also on my list for tomorrow is the León Museum which has a history of the camino pilgrimage which should be interesting. Also a very nice building.

Didn’t do much tonight as after a very hot day hitting 29*C, its now raining. I’ll just lounge in my room with a bottle of £4.95 red wine that costs me £9 back home 😳🍷

Have to check in at another hotel tomorrow with a spa in it. Might see if I can get a leg and back massage. On Monday its back to the nitty gritty clocking off the final 300km of this adventure. 💪🏻😎

Bercianos Del Real Camino – Mansilla Mayor

30km walked today, fresh as a daisy and with a spring in my step. The first 7k to El Burgo went very quick. I got talking to a Swedish girl called Daniella who had done the Camino 10 years ago and had planned to come back for more. She said it hadn’t changed much apart from the numbers of folk doing it which had exploded this year.

Stopped at a cafe for breakfast. Tortilla and coffee as usual. Quickly moved on to tackle the 13km to Reliegos.

A lunch stop in Reliegos seen me meet up with Pete and Megan from New Zealand, and Don from Australia. We had a good chat about the upcoming Rugby World Cup. Pete was quietly confident but was a little worried about England. First pint of the day!

Another 7km took me to Mansilla de las Mullas. The walk today was made much easier by walking to the beat of AC/DC and Queen on the headphones which I have used only once before on the camino.

I arrived at my albergue and was warmly received by the hospitalero and shown my room. It’s a lovely little room which would have impressioned well in an old western movie – No more John Wayne I promise!

Tomorrow I get up early-ish and walk the 13km to Léon. I have two days booked in this city as I have a couple of things to do and see. I may be meeting up with some of the people I met on the first evening in Roncesvalles! Adios amigos!

Sahagun – Bercianos Del Real Camino 10km

John Wayne Day

I left the bike for the rental company to collect and enjoyed a lovely stay in the Albergue San Juan. Last night I enjoyed a couple of generous whiskeys while watching the football.

I woke up this morning…just ouch! My hips and butt were just aching. I could hardly get up. Had I been sexually assaulted by a bunch of gorillas?? Certainly felt like it.

I got my self together and had a shower. I bought a bar of soap last night as my gel had run out. The smell of it is so addictive. I think I’ll now order it in bulk.

Grabbed a quick brekkie and started todays walk. John Wayne would have been so proud of me copying his bow-legged stroll out of town.

Few nice things to see at the edge of town before setting out on a long straight path.

Most people on the Camino complain that this long stretch of 180km called the Mesata, is boring and pretty much the same thing the entire way. Well I loved it, and thats all that matters!!. With Whitesnakes’ “Here I Go Again” roaring in my ears, I was in my element. 19*C, blue skies, no wind and little birdies singing their song along the way.

I had wrapped up in sun blocking clothes and my trusty oul sun cap. Takin no chances as tomorrow I have 6 hours of walking to my next stop. 30km. I took some photos along this long straight path, and only really spoke to one Italian man who asked to get his photo taken. He then returned the favour, said “Buen Camino”, and we headed on with our own journeys.

I seen some strange metal tubed archway on the path. I don’t know the reason for this as it’s nowhere near a town or place. It looked like the remains of the tin man from the Wizard of Oz. “Follow the yellow dirt road, follow the yellow dirt road”. (Or something along those lines.)

Got to my hostel in a little under two hours and found it to be a nice wee place indeed. It only holds 20 people, so it was easy to get a shower and get food. Each of the bunks have a curtain to pull over which all the best albergues have. Early to bed tonight to get prepared for this big one tomorrow.

Absolutely nothing else in this town only a small shop and a bar or two. Took some photos of the best bits. ⤵️

Fromista – Sahagun 60km

2nd day on the bike and thankfully no hill climbs today. I got up at 7am and got the worst excuse for a breakfast you could ever get in the albergue, and got on the road at 7:45. Travelling at roughly 20km/hr I didn’t stop until I got to Ledigos where I got my proper breakfast of tortilla, a croissant, a cafe con leche, a banana and then got a glass of Coke.

I flew on to Carrion de los Condes. A slightly bigger town but again, not much to see other than the usual.

Eventually reached Terradillos de los Templarios. A former stronghold of the Knights Templar. I was excited to get here as it represents the halfway point on the Camino and I was interested to see remains of the Knights Templar buildings. Nothing remains only a cathedral! Very disappointing. Surely you have to have some benchmark on the halfway point, and why not have at least a little museum to provide information on the Knights Templar.

Apparently there is a 13th century crucifix in this church and holds a pilgrim mass at certain times. JUST OPEN THE DOORS AND SHOW ME THE CRUCIFIX!!

Eventually pressed on and reached Sahagun. Found my Hostal (San Juan) and was pleasantly surprised to see such a lovely clean place. Got my own room for the night and private bathroom which I will need to give myself a good grooming. My nails are the length of Jamie Leis cat Shadow, you could strike a match on my face with the grizzly beard and you could cook bacon on the oil substance that is sunscreen.

Had a quick dander round the streets, got my washing done in the laundromat. I had time for a cerveza mas grandé in the bar opposite the laundromat while waiting.

Just doing a short walk of 10km tomorrow to Brecianos Del Real Camino. This will set me back on the planned schedule for the final stroll towards Santiago.

Waiting now patiently on the lazy locals to get up from their siesta and do a decent days work. Then get some grub.

Walking is the great adventure, the first meditation, a practice of heartiness and soul primary to humankind. Walking is the exact balance between spirit and humility.

Gary Snyder – The practice of the wild.

Burgos – Fromista 60km on bike.

Today I have hired a bike for three days to do the Mesata. The Mesata is a 180km trail that is mainly on flat exposed land. Almost desert like. As I cannot be exposed to the sun for too long due to my medications, the cycling will only take me three days rather than 7 if I was walking it. Less exposure.

First I got up and joined the gang for breakfast at the cafe. I could see that most people were in a downbeat mood. We said our farewells and promised to keep the WhatsApp group open to keep in touch.

I finally collected my bike at about 11am and Oscar at the bike shop was a gem in getting me sorted. Unfortunately I had to have my walking stick ‘Barney’ cut in three to fit. Barney has guided me everywhere from day one in St Jean. I was looking for walking sticks when I seen this peculiar wooden one for 13 yoyos- 13 is my lucky number. What was peculiar was that one one side of the handle looked a bit like a snake. I had great fun setting this stick on peoples shoulders and scaring the life out of them as they walked. Hopefully I can get Barney fixed back together again when I get home.

Anyway, off I set out of Burgos at a nice pace and followed the yellow arrows of the Camino. I got my first 10k done in no time at all. This was great for me as I was cruising along the paths quite quickly. Then came the first hill. A big climb of about 100m. No bother getting up in working the gears. Coming down this at a quick speed the adjuster on my front wheel came loose and I had lost full control. I managed to get the bike stopped and fixed the wheel back in place. Quite a hairy moment.

I stopped at 30km in Hontanas for some grub and an ice cold beer. Then came the beast!! Alto de Mostelares. A 200m steep climb up a gravel track. I managed to cycle a third of this then I couldn’t continue any further. I got off and pushed the bike to the top of the hill and probably lost 2 Litres of sweat doing so. A nice gradual descent got me back on track and blasting the km through the flat terrain.

I passed the ruins of San Anton and made my way along a river towards Fromista

I arrived in Fromista at 6pm and got to my albergue. There is a serious lack of life in this town. Hardly anywhere open and only a handful of locals walking about. Got myself some bread, meat and cheese and made myself a bocadillo for supper.

Another 60km to Sahagun tomo. I hope my bum is a little less sore tomo. 🙈

Atapuerco – Burgos 20km

I didn’t get to post this yesterday as I fell asleep after a hectic day. The group I had been walking with are all going their separate ways after today. Kieron and Lisanne are going home, myself and Dora are hiring bikes though Dora is staying an extra day in Burgos and Christian is staying another day but walking the entire route.

We got up early and left our lovely little albergue for the night, and met at a shop at 8am. Everyone just wanted to get this walk done. Another dutch girl called Martina joined us along with a german guy that I can’t recall his name and Kevin from Oregon. All great additions to our group for the day.

We didn’t get much sleep due to a wee round German woman keeping the whole town awake with her snoring. I had to hold my laughter in several times as Kieron kicked the partition hard several times to try and get her to stop. He then told us today that he actually grabbed his cushion and gave her a good slap and still didn’t stop her. We all had a good laugh about it.

This walk today started off through some wildland and then eventually an industrial outskirt of the city. Before we knew it we were in the middle of Burgos and checking in to our albergue.

We quickly got washed and headed into town for food, then visited the Burgos Cathedral.

After quite a long tour, we all met up again at a pizzeria for our last supper together along with Paula from Brazil who had been part of the original group. Paula played Irish music on the tin whistle to perfection.

The craic was ninety and the food was just what I needed. Martina had told me earlier that she loved whiskey. Music to my ears!

After dinner myself and Martina found a bar that had half decent whiskey. We opted for a Jamiesons, and laughed as the young bar girl just poured two doubles for us and charged the equivalent of one back home.

We had a nice wee chat about our lives and the Camino, before heading back to the others in the albergue.

Espinosa Del Camino – Atapuerca 24km

A lovely trail walk today between these two beautiful little towns.

We are staying tonight at a lovely little albergue called Hostel La Puezela Verde. A hostel run by brothers who used their tradesmen skills to convert this building into an albergue using their own hands.

We had an enjoyable day walking today as it has become apparent that a couple of members of our group will be leaving us this Wednesday to go home. Keiron has changed his flight home to a week earlier. Lisanne is going home on Wednesday also and Christian will continue to walk the camino, while myself and Dora intend to cycle the Meseta to Leon.

I’m really loving this group I’m with and will be very sad to see some of them leave. I will keep in contact with them all and hopefully meet up again for some banter.

As I write this, there is a German woman snoring like an asthmatic hippopotamus. Earlier today I kindly offered to swap beds with her as I was on a bottom bunk and she was on a top bunk. She appeared exhausted and I didn’t think she would be able to climb to a top bunk. She was forever so grateful to me. But now as I can’t get to sleep I’m wondering if I should give her a good kick on the ass. What kinda karma is that?? Honestly a wild boar could not grunt any louder. The joys of the Camino makes you appreciate your existing life back home much more. Its becoming a bit like ground ‘hog’ day. 🤣

Roll on Burgos!

Grañon – Espinosa 24km

Today was a long boring day. We met at 8am and all the cafes were closed so no breakfast. We walked through three more towns and still no food or coffee. GET UP YOU LAZY SPANIARDS! We all need our daily cafe con leche!

We come into a small town called Villa del Mayor and finally a little cafe open selling coffee, beer drinks and typical spanish snacks. I got a ham and cheese bocadillo and a coffee with a couple of bananas. Bananas are full of potassium which is essential in preventing cramps. I have at least one every day. If no bananas, dark chocolate can do the same.

We got a group selfie on the way- 5 totally different people from Europe all enjoying each others company. With one guy to catch up- wonderful how so many people from different backgrounds and different reasons for doing the Camino can all bond together and enjoy the challenge.

A few more towns were passed including Belorado which had some fantastic murals on display. and a lovely church building.

I walked on with Ciaron and Christian and we got some selfies at a landmark point along the way.

Not much to see the rest of the way until we got to our albergue. Quick shower, down for a beer and then communal dinner.

Tomorrow we walk 22km to Atapuerca. Before walking to Burgos where two of us are going home, some continuing walking and some considering cycling the flat desert area known as the Mesata. The Mesata is 180km long and offers no shade from the sun. By taking a bicycle I could cut four days from the Mesata and would have these days to add to my rest days. Sounds like a plan I need to investigate. 🤔