Azofra – Grañon 22km

After a great sleep in the municipal albergue in Azofra, we met at the bar for breakfast – a chocolate filled pastry and a cafe con leche (milky coffee).

We set out on the way towards Santa Domingo De La Conzada, passing through Cirueña where Ciaron and I walked in a loop around town before we found the correct route out. This was a lovely little town to pass through but nowhere seemed to be open.

We walked through some glorious countryside before we got to Santa Domingo.

All of us met at a cafe for lunch while Christian (Austria) went into the church famous for having a chicken in it.

You can read the story about the chicken bere:

https://caminotimestwo.com/2017/03/17/the-chickens-of-santo-domingo-de-la-calzada/

Myself and Ciaron spotted a hiking shop on the way through town and paid a quick visit. Ciaron got an extra large poncho to cover himself and his extra large backpack. I got a pair of running socks with a little extra blister padding than the ones I have. I also checked out the price of new Hoka trail running shoes as the ones I am wearing are degrading quite fast. Unfortunately I don’t think they will last the whole Camino. This saddens me a little as they were bought to me by my wife Marissa for a Christmas present specifically for the camino. But we’ll see.

When we arrived in Grañon, it looked like a nice little town. The sun was shining and there were plenty of other peregrinos sitting outside the bar drinking beer. Mmmmm beeeer!!

We had intended to stay at the church albergue which is a donativo. (A donativo is a place where you can stay for the night and just donate whatever money you can afford for their hospitality.) There was only a huge room with about 20 mattresses on the floor, very poor lighting and no sign of showers. We decided to move on.

We went to another Donativo up the street which had a lovely smell of insence throughout. A lovely man showed us our room and a few of our guys were happy with their beds but myself and Olaf (German) were not happy with the small very dimly-lit room we were given with bunk beds and no way of climbing onto the top bunk ?? It felt a bit claustrophobic so we made our apologies to the kind man and got booked into the municipal albergue at the edge of town.

Much better and for 12 yoyos each for a twin room and a fancy shared bathroom. Great choice!

I got some food in the local bar. A big plate of patatas bravas (fries covered in spicy tomato based sauce and mayo.) Replacement carbs after a long walk. I also got a chicken fillet with this for protein.

Then at 7pm the church bells started ringing for Friday Mass. Ciaron (Wales), Dora (Hungary), Lisanne (Netherlands) and myself decided to go to the Mass.

The Spanish priest gave us all a blessing (In Spanish) for the rest of our Camino. I actually enjoyed it. Something about these big medieval churches makes it all special.

One thing I have noticed and disliked in this town is the number of big fat flies everywhere. So irritating. Landing on my balding head every minute. Not sure what the problem is here. And no, before you even say it, I do not smell like shite! 😆

Tomorrow we head to Espinosa Del Camino which is about 25km away. Olaf took care of the bookings for tomorrow in a decent albergue.

Just having one more pint now and then bed. Nitey nite folks xo

Logroño – Azofra – 35km

I got out of Logroño early today about 7:30 as I knew I had a 29km walk to Najéra. It was quite hot early in the morning so had to slap on the factor 50 and wear my fleece for sun protection.

I got to Navarette within two hours and sat down for a ham and cheese bocadillo, a full fat coke and an apple. This kept me going rightly.

I reached Najéro about 2pm and stopped at the albergue I had pre-booked on Booking.com, checked in and was shown to my bed. The guy that owns the place looked like he was off his nut and was playing techno dance music at a high volume echoing through the albergue. I lay for half an hour to relax then decided to bolt. I had free cancellation on booking.com until 6pm. Money re-funded I set on my way for another 6km to Azofra. Best decision ever! A fabulous walk through wooded lands and entered a town that would be perfect for a western film!

I was very excited to see some of the guys I met in an albergue room in Torres Del Rio. A mixture of Austrian, Dutch, Hungarian, Welsh and now Irish. We went for a few pints and then brought drinks back to the albergue to sit beside the 50cm deep swimming pool 🤣

I got two tiny blisters on my feet today. I think its because I used a dirty pair of socks instead of clean ones. Compeeds on and ready for tomorrows wee dander to Grañon. I’m now trying to stay in towns less favourable as you are always guaranteed accommodation and for less than 15 yoyos a night. It also allows a free spirit like myself to just walk and take what comes. The magic of the Camino.

This was a bit of a frustrating day for me. I seemed to be the only peregrino about. Checked out of the room at 11 after a dandy oul breakfast which included brown bread and butter. Theres wayyy too much white bread in this place.

I took a walk around town to find a razor to shave this prickly stubble that seemed to appear overnight. Pharmacists don’t seem to sell razors so I went to the trusty oul supermercado and got one blade that will last me the rest of the Camino.

The locals were all sitting outside having coffee, smoking cigars and drinking wine quietly amongst themselves, when I seen a pint of Ambor lager. It seemed to have a halo around it. I went into the cafe and ordered a pint and just sat there in the light shade looking at a statue of General Espartue on his wee horse supping my pint.

Look at you sitting there with a big smile on your face!!🤪.

1pm Still no peregrino’s, some on the way others sleeping and missing out on such a lovely city. I texted a few to see if they were about but no answer. Come on!! Live a little!

Getting restless I decided I would hunt for an ‘Irish Bar’ in the slightest hope that a pint of the ol black rocket fuel may linger amongst the terraces of bocadillos (sandwiches) and croissants.

My old friend/enemy Google informs me that the nearest Irish pub is one called St. Patricks. Just 5mins walk away. Off I shuffled to investigate.

Lo and behold, I seen a big sign with ‘Guinness’ on it. Straight in like a mouse to a cheese factory! Like most ‘Irish’ pubs it was dark and drab-looking with a barmaid who spoke spanglish. I walked straight up and asked for a pint of the black stuff. When served, I said to her in my broad Northern Ireland accent, “I’ve been searching for this for a long time”. She just looked at me like I was some kind of weirdo. Ah well! She wouldn’t be too far wrong to be honest. 🤣

5pm Theres some hope yet with some peregrinos arriving in town and looking to meet up later for dinner. We’ll see how it goes, but I’ll not be having too many bevvies tonight with the guts of 30km to walk tomorrow to Nájera. 😳

I just feel like I wasted a full day waiting on others. I could have walked today no problem and be a stage further. Lesson learned. Terminator mode will now commence from tomorrow on. This machine that is me is fired up and ready for action! 💪🏻

Catch ya all tomo folks!

Torres del Rio – Logroño 20km

I started of this day earlyish at 8am. While walking out of Torres Del Rio, I bumped into Ross and his parter Megan again. Two Irish doctors who were returning to Ireland from Australia. We had a speedy walk to Vianna where we walked thought the town to an old ruin of a large building, then had a beer and some food at a cafe.

After this we headed on for the last 5 or so km to Logroño. We arrived at 1pm meeting South Korean Chan on the way and some other old dude from Kerry. We parted ways to look for our albergues.

The albergue I had booked was not open until 3pm but as I walked past I could see loads of people inside the building. I phoned the number and asked if I could leave my backpack in the albergue until check-in and received a mouthful of abuse in spanish from the person who answered the call. I told them to stuff it and cancelled my booking. It was only 14 yoyos so didn’t lose too much. I booked myself into a cheap hotel for the night and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality.

I then got settled, had a shower, done the laundry and then walked up the town for something to eat. I had a peregrino meal at a lovely cafe called Juanlobo. A starter of bread roll and a large shot of vegetable soup, a second starter of spaghetti bolognese and and main course of cod with a tomato based sauce, potato and avocado, with Tiramisu to finish. Absolutely amazing food. Logroño is well known for its food and wine.

I then went to a bar nearby and Ross and Megan joined me again for a couple of beer. Before they arrived I had the lovely company of some little birds to share my crisps.

I then met up with some of the Camino family, Kylie (USA), Pernilla (Sweden) Phoebe (China) and a new guy I hadn’t met yet SI U (Hong Kong). We had a few bevies together and some snacks. I also met some of the dutch party that I spent last night with in a dorm.

All in all quite a nice day and I think I will stay here tomorrow too. The food and wine is just too good to have for one day.

Estella – Torres Del Rio – 30km

Absolutely cracking day. Sun, blue skies, free wine and amazing trails.

First stop was 2km out of Estella, the famous Bodega Irache which provides 100 litres of free red wine every day but Sunday. Of course I had to indulge with a little cupful.

The rest of the trail took me through winding farm roads, through vineyards, wheatfields, and undulating landscapes. I got walking with Phoebe and her Taiwan friends who tried to teach me mandarin language, but as I have the worst short-term memory, it proved a little difficult. 😆

I got to Los Arcos at roughly 1:30pm and met a Korean guy called Chan I had met previously at the wine fountain. We had a beer and a good chat. He talked about his girlfriend who had an injury and had travelled by taxi to the albergue. I joined them both for dinner at the albergue Casa Mariela in Torres del Rio 7.5km away. Peregrino dinner on the Camino is very generous. For 14 yoyos I got a salad starter, chicken and chips for mains and jelly for desert and of course a bottle of vino tinto (red wine) to share. 🍷

Tomorrow I make my way to Logroño which is known for it’s fabulous food and wine. I am staying in a nice albergue tomorrow but may stay another day to wait for some friends to catch up. It gives heavy showers until 10am so I’ll hang around the cafe/bar until then and then walk the 4 hours (20km) to Logroño.

Puenta la Reina – Estella 23km

Back on the wagon today again with a 22km walk with an extra 1km to the hostel. An absolute stinker of a day in pouring rain and muddy paths.

Despite all the rain, muck and feeling like a soggy teabag, my spirit was kept alive by my two wee camino sista’s Phoebe and Ghazal.

These two and I have formed our own Camino Mafia, as we go about swapping drugs and medical items on the Camino.

Phoebe has a strange problem on her heel but she soldiered on through it today, and Ghazal got a blister on her toe early doors but got over the line in strong condition.

Together, they provide a serious load of entertainment for me, they are both social media queens mastering photography, videos and songs. I’d struggle without them. They are just deadly!!

The trail today took us through a few villages/towns enroute to Estella. We walked for several hours drenched in rain and mud and went over many bridges of all designs.

We came to a church and I went to the door and prayed to God if he made the rain stop and that I would stop at every church along the way that day and say a prayer. Well, the rain did stop. At least heavily, and Ghazal made sure that I stopped at every church until we got to Estella. 🙈🤣

After another km of walking through this beautiful town, we arrived at our Hostel for tonight. Alda Estella Hostel. Absolutely lovely hostel in a quiet part of town. A comforting warm shower, clothes washed and dried and out for a couple of pints and dinner. Early to bed tonight to get a good long sleep for tomorrow’s journey to Los Arcos.

Addition- I should point out that I am extremely grateful to the local man who handed out free garlic bread drizzled with olive oil, and almond flavoured cake about half way along today. These people are angels. One give out free coffee and tea just two days ago of their own free will and desire to help pilgrims. Mucho gracias!

Day two – Relax day

This is Puenta la Reina (or The Queens Bridge) in all its glory. Sancho 111 wife Doña Mayor commanded that this 6 arch bridge was built to support the increasing number of medieval pilgrim’s who joined the camino at this stage.

Whilst walking into the center of this wonderful town I heard a festival taking place. It turned out to be the Festival of Youths which takes part annually in Puenta la Reina. A crazy little festival which the whole community provides for each other. They have a march through the streets with their ‘bigheads’ characters and then set out little stoves in a square to cook and share food with each other. I am very lucky to be in this town to experience it.

While walking the streets after the march, I found a house that I would be proud to live in. A very plain looking house but made pretty by the owner, and I love the doorway.

Straight across from this is an old church/chapel with one a grand entrance.

Thats all I have for today as it was just a little rest day to recover from some very minor muscle injuries in my legs/feet.

Onwards to Estella tomorrow and get back on track.

“It’s a long way to Santiagooo” (Sang to the tune of Its a long way to Tipperary)

Pamplona – Puenta la Reina 24km

After a great sleep last night in Pamplona I felt in a good mood today and decided to get up and visit some of the tourist attractions in the city before I started walking.

The bull fighting stadium was closed at the time I visited, as was the Irish Bar I wanted to go to so I went to the Cathedral for a nosey.

I went inside and got my stamp for the credencial and dandered on in for a look around. Waow!! Amazing place. I walked around and took some pics and then sat down on a pew and listened to the holy music playing. Not really a thing I normally do but I sat down and prayed for all my family, some of who do not have the best health right now. I started choking up a bit thinking about everyone. But my way of dealing with emotion is always to get angry with myself, and this spurred me on to walk really quickly today.

This day was on country road/path once out of Pamplona. One big mountain hike in the middle of it called Alto de Perdón was worth climbing to see, but the stoney path down was so hard on the legs and feet.

I walked further on towards Puenta amongst some very scenic views and then met up with sone friends for the last few mile for today.

My feet are really hurting today even after a nice hot bath last night. The Albergue Jakue that I am staying in is lovely and has a deadly beer garden. The town is quiet so I think I will stay here an extra day just to rest the feet. Its a long way to Santiago so have to be sensible.

Zubiri – Pamplona 21km

Arrived in Pamplona today at roughly 2:30-3pm. A very vibrant city full of busy people and fantastic buildings. It kinda reminds me of Rome with all the narrow streets and tall 4-5 storey buildings on each side.

Today I walked with Phoebe again and also Ghazal from Canada. We had mighty craic singing songs and stomping our sticks to the beat along the whole way. We walked approx 5km from the outskirts of Pamplona to the central walled city within. My hotel (Hotel Sercotel Europa) was just off the main plaza. A fabulous hotel, and I felt a little underdressed to be going in there but I’m sure they are used to peregrino’s turning up sweaty and the dirt hanging off them

Tonight it’s turned quite cold and I think I am just going to stay in the hotel and have a long hot soak in the bath. I can visit some of the sites in the morning. Its a 24km hike tomorrow to Puenta La Reina and have to arrive before 8pm, so plenty of time.

Unfortunately there is no bull run in Pamplona until July. That would have been good to watch. Roll on tomorrow!

Roncesvalles to Zubiri – 22km

After yesterdays mountain hike, I woke up with very sore calve muscles and faced a more flat 22km to Zubiri. I met up with a few of the people I met at dinner last night for breakfast and Phoebe from China (but has lived in California and London and speaks good english) decided to walk with me today. We later met up with Lienna from USA and walked a good 15km before I met up with Thorsteinn from Iceland again- (He was on my flight from Dublin).

This walk was so beautiful on mostly smooth trail through forests. But because of yesterdays hike, any little hill was like a punishment. Everyone was finding it tough.

I eventually reached Zubiri which is a very clean little village with only two bars/restaurants and quite a few albergues. To enter Zubiri you have to cross the Puenta de la Rabia bridge. This bridge has a story that if you make an animal cross this bridge three times, it will be cured of rabies.

I stayed at Albergue Zaldiko which is a small premises but has 8 people to a room. Quick shower and up to the bar for some paella and beer with Thorsteinn, Kylie (USA), Raquel (Spain) and a Swedish lady who I just can’t recall her name. (I ordered this in spanish too for all -woohoo!!

All home early so we can get up early and arrive in good time to make the best of Pamplona tomorrow.

Apparently there’s a couple of Irish bars in Pamplona, so if I get the chance I might get a pint of the black stuff. Just for the iron of course. 😉