St Jean Pied De Port – Roncesvalles 25km 1400m climb.

Woke up at 7am got brekkie and left the albergue at 8am. Sue had left at 6:30, Sonya at 7:30 and Colin was staying another day in St Jean.

The first 8km is very steep climbing 800m to Orisson. The hills were relentless and I luckily bought a big wooden walking stick to help me. Had a brunch at Orrison before continuing up another 600m in cold windy mist. Couldnt see 10m in front of me but could hear the bells on a good number of horses. They all have different chimes to identify who owns them.

Eventually, after a damn good fight on constant hills, I got to the highest point – Lepoeder. 1400m above sea level. All down hill from here.

A very steep descent through a magical forest where I put my trail running skills to use to blast down the hills to Roncesvalles, I scared the life outa a couple of Americans. An older chinese couple started roaring with laughter and I started laughing too nearly tripping over a tree root.

I got to Roncesvalles and stood in a queue for an hour soaking wet before I got my bed and a hot shower. the kind volunteers at this monastry/albergue kindly washed my clothes. Communal dinner is at 7 with optional Mass at 8pm – erm yeah after that walk! I’m not going to Mass to stand up and sit down several times with sore legs 🙈 I’ll maybe go to a mass in some of the ancient cathedrals in the cities later on.

I’m gonna be sore tomorrow! 🤣

This is the starting point for the Camino Frances. A little town at the bottom of France and the base point of the passage over the Pyrenees mountains and into Spain.

I arrived by mountain train with about 50 other hikers from all over the world. A short walk uphill towards the albergue (Gite in french) Makila- a rather luxurious albergue. It didnt open til 3pm so I had two hours to sit and have a vin de rouge grande.

I then got registered for the camino and got settled in my room in the albergue. Only three other people shared the room. A very shy South Korean girl called Sonya who could barely speak a word of english so we communicated in hand signals and that dumb english accent you put on when chatting to foreigners. Next was Colin from Sweden. Gentleman but by jaysus he loved to talk and spoke good english. Then Sue from Australia. Sue was a pleasant girl about my age and loved hiking. When we all went out for a drink later, Sue became our translator as she spoke fluent spanish. We had a nice walk around town then hit the hay early as the albergue shut closed at 8pm. It was a nice first day.

Stayed overnight in Bayonne at the Hotel Cote Basque. Nice place. Had a wee dander in late evening as everywhere was closed up early on Sunday evening. Seems like French people have it all worked out. Very laid back way of life.

In the train now to St Jean through the mountains of the Pyrenees. Picturesque!

7th May 2023

On the bus to Dublin airport.

The day is finally here. Its Sunday the 7th May 2023 and I am just about to get on the bus from Omagh to Dublin airport. I’ll then catch a plane to Biarritz, hop on another bus to Bayonne and stay in a hotel for the night. Tomorrow I catch a 1 hr mountain train to St Jean Pied de Port to register for the Camino Frances. I then spend a night in an albergue called Gite Makila, and start my walk on Tuesday Morning.

I just want to thank my wife Marissa and daughter Jamie Lei for the lovely send off yesterday and today. I love them both soo much and will miss them beyond imagination and also the support given by my family and close friends.

Keep checking in on my blog and follow me into the unknown to the edge of the world!

“Carry as little as possible, but choose that little with care.” – Earl Shaffer

What am I carrying in my backpack?

After five months or research, trial and crucial decision making, I’ve decided on my gear. I guess all my hiking, running and youtube watching has put me in a good position to help this essential decision making. Its recommended to have a pack that weighs no more than 10% of your bodyweight. My pack comes in at just under 7kg which is well within that range. 😆

So here is the list!

• 33l Osprey Talon rucksack
• Mac-in-a-sac Waterproof and breathable raincoat
• Montane technical fleece
• Craghoppers long sleeve shirt with spf 50
• 3No Berghaus Technical T shirts with Argentium which helps keep odours away- I’ll need that!
• Berghaus hiking shorts
• Craghoppers walking trousers
• UA sports shorts
• 2No Runderwear Merino wool socks
• 1No Mountain Warehouse ISO socks
• 2No Runderwear underpants
• 1No. Cotton underpants
• Hoka Challenger Trail running shoes
• Hoka recovery slip-on shoes
• 2 buffs
• 1 merino wool hat
• 1 sun hat
• Ultralightweight sleeping bag
• Silk liner
• Hand towel that converts into a pillow when stuffed with clothes
• Scrubba portable wash bag
• Quick drying technical towel
• Portable washing line and pegs
• First aid kit
• Toiletries including shower gel, toothpaste, toothbrush, footscrubber
• Suncream, aftersun, tiger balm, clothes washing liquid, anti bug spray, chafing balm, paracetamol.
• Spork
• Saltrock collapsible water bottle
• Usb charger with nightlight
• Headphones
• Solar powered battery back
• Mobile phone
• Medication.

I also have a waist strap that I will carry my passports, money/credit cards, and Camino Credencial in at all times.

Of course I can’t forget my scallop shell will be attached to my bag to let the albergues, hostals etc know that I am a peregrino/pilgrim for cheaper rates.

Its just mental you can get all this stuff into one smallish rucksack! Its been a valuable lesson already.