Packing
āCarry as little as possible, but choose that little with care.ā ā Earl Shaffer
What am I carrying in my backpack?
After five months or research, trial and crucial decision making, Iāve decided on my gear. I guess all my hiking, running and youtube watching has put me in a good position to help this essential decision making. Its recommended to have a pack that weighs no more than 10% of your bodyweight. My pack comes in at just under 7kg which is well within that range. š
So here is the list!
- 33l Osprey Talon rucksack
- Mac-in-a-sac Waterproof and breathable raincoat
- Montane technical fleece
- Craghoppers long sleeve shirt with spf 50
- 3No Berghaus Technical T shirts with Argentium which helps keep odours away- Iāll need that!
- Berghaus hiking shorts
- Craghoppers walking trousers
- UA sports shorts
- 2No Runderwear Merino wool socks
- 1No Mountain Warehouse ISO socks
- 2No Runderwear underpants
- 1No. Cotton underpants
- Hoka Challenger Trail running shoes
- Hoka recovery slip-on shoes
- 2 buffs
- 1 merino wool hat
- 1 sun hat
- Ultralightweight sleeping bag
- Silk liner
- Hand towel that converts into a pillow when stuffed with clothes
- Scrubba portable wash bag
- Quick drying technical towel
- Portable washing line and pegs
- First aid kit
- Toiletries including shower gel, toothpaste, toothbrush, footscrubber
- Suncream, aftersun, tiger balm, clothes washing liquid, anti bug spray, chafing balm, paracetamol.
- Spork
- Saltrock collapsible water bottle
- Usb charger with nightlight
- Headphones
- Solar powered battery back
- Mobile phone
- Medication.
I also have a waist strap that I will carry my passports, money/credit cards, and Camino Credencial in at all times.
Of course I canāt forget my scallop shell will be attached to my bag to let the albergues, hostals etc know that I am a peregrino/pilgrim for cheaper rates.
Its just mental you can get all this stuff into one smallish rucksack! Its been a valuable lesson already.
Leaving on a jet plane!
7th May 2023
On the bus to Dublin airport.
The day is finally here. Its Sunday the 7th May 2023 and I am just about to get on the bus from Omagh to Dublin airport. Iāll then catch a plane to Biarritz, hop on another bus to Bayonne and stay in a hotel for the night. Tomorrow I catch a 1 hr mountain train to St Jean Pied de Port to register for the Camino Frances. I then spend a night in an albergue called Gite Makila, and start my walk on Tuesday Morning.
I just want to thank my wife Marissa and daughter Jamie Lei for the lovely send off yesterday and today. I love them both soo much and will miss them beyond imagination and also the support given by my family and close friends.
Keep checking in on my blog and follow me into the unknown to the edge of the world!
To the edge of the world and Bayonne.
Stayed overnight in Bayonne at the Hotel Cote Basque. Nice place. Had a wee dander in late evening as everywhere was closed up early on Sunday evening. Seems like French people have it all worked out. Very laid back way of life.
In the train now to St Jean through the mountains of the Pyrenees. Picturesque!
Saint John Pied De Port
This is the starting point for the Camino Frances. A little town at the bottom of France and the base point of the passage over the Pyrenees mountains and into Spain.
I arrived by mountain train with about 50 other hikers from all over the world. A short walk uphill towards the albergue (Gite in french) Makila- a rather luxurious albergue. It didnt open til 3pm so I had two hours to sit and have a vin de rouge grande.
I then got registered for the camino and got settled in my room in the albergue. Only three other people shared the room. A very shy South Korean girl called Sonya who could barely speak a word of english so we communicated in hand signals and that dumb english accent you put on when chatting to foreigners. Next was Colin from Sweden. Gentleman but by jaysus he loved to talk and spoke good english. Then Sue from Australia. Sue was a pleasant girl about my age and loved hiking. When we all went out for a drink later, Sue became our translator as she spoke fluent spanish. We had a nice walk around town then hit the hay early as the albergue shut closed at 8pm. It was a nice first day.
Roncesvalles
St Jean Pied De Port – Roncesvalles 25km 1400m climb.
Woke up at 7am got brekkie and left the albergue at 8am. Sue had left at 6:30, Sonya at 7:30 and Colin was staying another day in St Jean.
The first 8km is very steep climbing 800m to Orisson. The hills were relentless and I luckily bought a big wooden walking stick to help me. Had a brunch at Orrison before continuing up another 600m in cold windy mist. Couldnt see 10m in front of me but could hear the bells on a good number of horses. They all have different chimes to identify who owns them.
Eventually, after a damn good fight on constant hills, I got to the highest point – Lepoeder. 1400m above sea level. All down hill from here.
A very steep descent through a magical forest where I put my trail running skills to use to blast down the hills to Roncesvalles, I scared the life outa a couple of Americans. An older chinese couple started roaring with laughter and I started laughing too nearly tripping over a tree root.
I got to Roncesvalles and stood in a queue for an hour soaking wet before I got my bed and a hot shower. the kind volunteers at this monastry/albergue kindly washed my clothes. Communal dinner is at 7 with optional Mass at 8pm – erm yeah after that walk! Iām not going to Mass to stand up and sit down several times with sore legs š Iāll maybe go to a mass in some of the ancient cathedrals in the cities later on.
Iām gonna be sore tomorrow! š¤£
Zubiri
Roncesvalles to Zubiri – 22km
After yesterdays mountain hike, I woke up with very sore calve muscles and faced a more flat 22km to Zubiri. I met up with a few of the people I met at dinner last night for breakfast and Phoebe from China (but has lived in California and London and speaks good english) decided to walk with me today. We later met up with Lienna from USA and walked a good 15km before I met up with Thorsteinn from Iceland again- (He was on my flight from Dublin).
This walk was so beautiful on mostly smooth trail through forests. But because of yesterdays hike, any little hill was like a punishment. Everyone was finding it tough.
I eventually reached Zubiri which is a very clean little village with only two bars/restaurants and quite a few albergues. To enter Zubiri you have to cross the Puenta de la Rabia bridge. This bridge has a story that if you make an animal cross this bridge three times, it will be cured of rabies.
I stayed at Albergue Zaldiko which is a small premises but has 8 people to a room. Quick shower and up to the bar for some paella and beer with Thorsteinn, Kylie (USA), Raquel (Spain) and a Swedish lady who I just canāt recall her name. (I ordered this in spanish too for all -woohoo!!
All home early so we can get up early and arrive in good time to make the best of Pamplona tomorrow.
Apparently thereās a couple of Irish bars in Pamplona, so if I get the chance I might get a pint of the black stuff. Just for the iron of course. š
Pamplona
Zubiri – Pamplona 21km
Arrived in Pamplona today at roughly 2:30-3pm. A very vibrant city full of busy people and fantastic buildings. It kinda reminds me of Rome with all the narrow streets and tall 4-5 storey buildings on each side.
Today I walked with Phoebe again and also Ghazal from Canada. We had mighty craic singing songs and stomping our sticks to the beat along the whole way. We walked approx 5km from the outskirts of Pamplona to the central walled city within. My hotel (Hotel Sercotel Europa) was just off the main plaza. A fabulous hotel, and I felt a little underdressed to be going in there but Iām sure they are used to peregrinoās turning up sweaty and the dirt hanging off them
Tonight itās turned quite cold and I think I am just going to stay in the hotel and have a long hot soak in the bath. I can visit some of the sites in the morning. Its a 24km hike tomorrow to Puenta La Reina and have to arrive before 8pm, so plenty of time.
Unfortunately there is no bull run in Pamplona until July. That would have been good to watch. Roll on tomorrow!
Puenta la Reina
Pamplona – Puenta la Reina 24km
After a great sleep last night in Pamplona I felt in a good mood today and decided to get up and visit some of the tourist attractions in the city before I started walking.
The bull fighting stadium was closed at the time I visited, as was the Irish Bar I wanted to go to so I went to the Cathedral for a nosey.
I went inside and got my stamp for the credencial and dandered on in for a look around. Waow!! Amazing place. I walked around and took some pics and then sat down on a pew and listened to the holy music playing. Not really a thing I normally do but I sat down and prayed for all my family, some of who do not have the best health right now. I started choking up a bit thinking about everyone. But my way of dealing with emotion is always to get angry with myself, and this spurred me on to walk really quickly today.
This day was on country road/path once out of Pamplona. One big mountain hike in the middle of it called Alto de PerdĆ³n was worth climbing to see, but the stoney path down was so hard on the legs and feet.
I walked further on towards Puenta amongst some very scenic views and then met up with sone friends for the last few mile for today.
My feet are really hurting today even after a nice hot bath last night. The Albergue Jakue that I am staying in is lovely and has a deadly beer garden. The town is quiet so I think I will stay here an extra day just to rest the feet. Its a long way to Santiago so have to be sensible.
Puenta La Reina
Day two – Relax day
This is Puenta la Reina (or The Queens Bridge) in all its glory. Sancho 111 wife DoƱa Mayor commanded that this 6 arch bridge was built to support the increasing number of medieval pilgrimās who joined the camino at this stage.
Whilst walking into the center of this wonderful town I heard a festival taking place. It turned out to be the Festival of Youths which takes part annually in Puenta la Reina. A crazy little festival which the whole community provides for each other. They have a march through the streets with their ābigheadsā characters and then set out little stoves in a square to cook and share food with each other. I am very lucky to be in this town to experience it.
While walking the streets after the march, I found a house that I would be proud to live in. A very plain looking house but made pretty by the owner, and I love the doorway.
Straight across from this is an old church/chapel with one a grand entrance.
Thats all I have for today as it was just a little rest day to recover from some very minor muscle injuries in my legs/feet.
Onwards to Estella tomorrow and get back on track.
āItās a long way to Santiagoooā (Sang to the tune of Its a long way to Tipperary)
Estella
Puenta la Reina – Estella 23km
Back on the wagon today again with a 22km walk with an extra 1km to the hostel. An absolute stinker of a day in pouring rain and muddy paths.
Despite all the rain, muck and feeling like a soggy teabag, my spirit was kept alive by my two wee camino sistaās Phoebe and Ghazal.
These two and I have formed our own Camino Mafia, as we go about swapping drugs and medical items on the Camino.
Phoebe has a strange problem on her heel but she soldiered on through it today, and Ghazal got a blister on her toe early doors but got over the line in strong condition.
Together, they provide a serious load of entertainment for me, they are both social media queens mastering photography, videos and songs. Iād struggle without them. They are just deadly!!
The trail today took us through a few villages/towns enroute to Estella. We walked for several hours drenched in rain and mud and went over many bridges of all designs.
We came to a church and I went to the door and prayed to God if he made the rain stop and that I would stop at every church along the way that day and say a prayer. Well, the rain did stop. At least heavily, and Ghazal made sure that I stopped at every church until we got to Estella. šš¤£
After another km of walking through this beautiful town, we arrived at our Hostel for tonight. Alda Estella Hostel. Absolutely lovely hostel in a quiet part of town. A comforting warm shower, clothes washed and dried and out for a couple of pints and dinner. Early to bed tonight to get a good long sleep for tomorrowās journey to Los Arcos.
Addition- I should point out that I am extremely grateful to the local man who handed out free garlic bread drizzled with olive oil, and almond flavoured cake about half way along today. These people are angels. One give out free coffee and tea just two days ago of their own free will and desire to help pilgrims. Mucho gracias!
Torres Del Rio
Estella – Torres Del Rio – 30km
Absolutely cracking day. Sun, blue skies, free wine and amazing trails.
First stop was 2km out of Estella, the famous Bodega Irache which provides 100 litres of free red wine every day but Sunday. Of course I had to indulge with a little cupful.
The rest of the trail took me through winding farm roads, through vineyards, wheatfields, and undulating landscapes. I got walking with Phoebe and her Taiwan friends who tried to teach me mandarin language, but as I have the worst short-term memory, it proved a little difficult. š
I got to Los Arcos at roughly 1:30pm and met a Korean guy called Chan I had met previously at the wine fountain. We had a beer and a good chat. He talked about his girlfriend who had an injury and had travelled by taxi to the albergue. I joined them both for dinner at the albergue Casa Mariela in Torres del Rio 7.5km away. Peregrino dinner on the Camino is very generous. For 14 yoyos I got a salad starter, chicken and chips for mains and jelly for desert and of course a bottle of vino tinto (red wine) to share. š·
Tomorrow I make my way to LogroƱo which is known for itās fabulous food and wine. I am staying in a nice albergue tomorrow but may stay another day to wait for some friends to catch up. It gives heavy showers until 10am so Iāll hang around the cafe/bar until then and then walk the 4 hours (20km) to LogroƱo.
LogroƱo
Torres del Rio – LogroƱo 20km
I started of this day earlyish at 8am. While walking out of Torres Del Rio, I bumped into Ross and his parter Megan again. Two Irish doctors who were returning to Ireland from Australia. We had a speedy walk to Vianna where we walked thought the town to an old ruin of a large building, then had a beer and some food at a cafe.
After this we headed on for the last 5 or so km to LogroƱo. We arrived at 1pm meeting South Korean Chan on the way and some other old dude from Kerry. We parted ways to look for our albergues.
The albergue I had booked was not open until 3pm but as I walked past I could see loads of people inside the building. I phoned the number and asked if I could leave my backpack in the albergue until check-in and received a mouthful of abuse in spanish from the person who answered the call. I told them to stuff it and cancelled my booking. It was only 14 yoyos so didnāt lose too much. I booked myself into a cheap hotel for the night and I was pleasantly surprised by the quality.
I then got settled, had a shower, done the laundry and then walked up the town for something to eat. I had a peregrino meal at a lovely cafe called Juanlobo. A starter of bread roll and a large shot of vegetable soup, a second starter of spaghetti bolognese and and main course of cod with a tomato based sauce, potato and avocado, with Tiramisu to finish. Absolutely amazing food. LogroƱo is well known for its food and wine.
I then went to a bar nearby and Ross and Megan joined me again for a couple of beer. Before they arrived I had the lovely company of some little birds to share my crisps.
I then met up with some of the Camino family, Kylie (USA), Pernilla (Sweden) Phoebe (China) and a new guy I hadnāt met yet SI U (Hong Kong). We had a few bevies together and some snacks. I also met some of the dutch party that I spent last night with in a dorm.
All in all quite a nice day and I think I will stay here tomorrow too. The food and wine is just too good to have for one day.
LogroƱo – Okm – Rest
This was a bit of a frustrating day for me. I seemed to be the only peregrino about. Checked out of the room at 11 after a dandy oul breakfast which included brown bread and butter. Theres wayyy too much white bread in this place.
I took a walk around town to find a razor to shave this prickly stubble that seemed to appear overnight. Pharmacists donāt seem to sell razors so I went to the trusty oul supermercado and got one blade that will last me the rest of the Camino.
The locals were all sitting outside having coffee, smoking cigars and drinking wine quietly amongst themselves, when I seen a pint of Ambor lager. It seemed to have a halo around it. I went into the cafe and ordered a pint and just sat there in the light shade looking at a statue of General Espartue on his wee horse supping my pint.
Look at you sitting there with a big smile on your face!!š¤Ŗ.
1pm Still no peregrinoās, some on the way others sleeping and missing out on such a lovely city. I texted a few to see if they were about but no answer. Come on!! Live a little!
Getting restless I decided I would hunt for an āIrish Barā in the slightest hope that a pint of the ol black rocket fuel may linger amongst the terraces of bocadillos (sandwiches) and croissants.
My old friend/enemy Google informs me that the nearest Irish pub is one called St. Patricks. Just 5mins walk away. Off I shuffled to investigate.
Lo and behold, I seen a big sign with āGuinnessā on it. Straight in like a mouse to a cheese factory! Like most āIrishā pubs it was dark and drab-looking with a barmaid who spoke spanglish. I walked straight up and asked for a pint of the black stuff. When served, I said to her in my broad Northern Ireland accent, āIāve been searching for this for a long timeā. She just looked at me like I was some kind of weirdo. Ah well! She wouldnāt be too far wrong to be honest. š¤£
5pm Theres some hope yet with some peregrinos arriving in town and looking to meet up later for dinner. Weāll see how it goes, but Iāll not be having too many bevvies tonight with the guts of 30km to walk tomorrow to NĆ”jera. š³
I just feel like I wasted a full day waiting on others. I could have walked today no problem and be a stage further. Lesson learned. Terminator mode will now commence from tomorrow on. This machine that is me is fired up and ready for action! šŖš»
Catch ya all tomo folks!
Espinosa Del Camino
GraƱon – Espinosa 24km
Today was a long boring day. We met at 8am and all the cafes were closed so no breakfast. We walked through three more towns and still no food or coffee. GET UP YOU LAZY SPANIARDS! We all need our daily cafe con leche!
We come into a small town called Villa del Mayor and finally a little cafe open selling coffee, beer drinks and typical spanish snacks. I got a ham and cheese bocadillo and a coffee with a couple of bananas. Bananas are full of potassium which is essential in preventing cramps. I have at least one every day. If no bananas, dark chocolate can do the same.
We got a group selfie on the way- 5 totally different people from Europe all enjoying each others company. With one guy to catch up- wonderful how so many people from different backgrounds and different reasons for doing the Camino can all bond together and enjoy the challenge.
A few more towns were passed including Belorado which had some fantastic murals on display. and a lovely church building.
I walked on with Ciaron and Christian and we got some selfies at a landmark point along the way.
Not much to see the rest of the way until we got to our albergue. Quick shower, down for a beer and then communal dinner.
Tomorrow we walk 22km to Atapuerca. Before walking to Burgos where two of us are going home, some continuing walking and some considering cycling the flat desert area known as the Mesata. The Mesata is 180km long and offers no shade from the sun. By taking a bicycle I could cut four days from the Mesata and would have these days to add to my rest days. Sounds like a plan I need to investigate. š¤
Atapuerca
Espinosa Del Camino – Atapuerca 24km
A lovely trail walk today between these two beautiful little towns.
We are staying tonight at a lovely little albergue called Hostel La Puezela Verde. A hostel run by brothers who used their tradesmen skills to convert this building into an albergue using their own hands.
We had an enjoyable day walking today as it has become apparent that a couple of members of our group will be leaving us this Wednesday to go home. Keiron has changed his flight home to a week earlier. Lisanne is going home on Wednesday also and Christian will continue to walk the camino, while myself and Dora intend to cycle the Meseta to Leon.
Iām really loving this group Iām with and will be very sad to see some of them leave. I will keep in contact with them all and hopefully meet up again for some banter.
As I write this, there is a German woman snoring like an asthmatic hippopotamus. Earlier today I kindly offered to swap beds with her as I was on a bottom bunk and she was on a top bunk. She appeared exhausted and I didnāt think she would be able to climb to a top bunk. She was forever so grateful to me. But now as I canāt get to sleep Iām wondering if I should give her a good kick on the ass. What kinda karma is that?? Honestly a wild boar could not grunt any louder. The joys of the Camino makes you appreciate your existing life back home much more. Its becoming a bit like ground āhogā day. š¤£
Roll on Burgos!
Burgos
Atapuerco – Burgos 20km
I didnāt get to post this yesterday as I fell asleep after a hectic day. The group I had been walking with are all going their separate ways after today. Kieron and Lisanne are going home, myself and Dora are hiring bikes though Dora is staying an extra day in Burgos and Christian is staying another day but walking the entire route.
We got up early and left our lovely little albergue for the night, and met at a shop at 8am. Everyone just wanted to get this walk done. Another dutch girl called Martina joined us along with a german guy that I canāt recall his name and Kevin from Oregon. All great additions to our group for the day.
We didnāt get much sleep due to a wee round German woman keeping the whole town awake with her snoring. I had to hold my laughter in several times as Kieron kicked the partition hard several times to try and get her to stop. He then told us today that he actually grabbed his cushion and gave her a good slap and still didnāt stop her. We all had a good laugh about it.
This walk today started off through some wildland and then eventually an industrial outskirt of the city. Before we knew it we were in the middle of Burgos and checking in to our albergue.
We quickly got washed and headed into town for food, then visited the Burgos Cathedral.
After quite a long tour, we all met up again at a pizzeria for our last supper together along with Paula from Brazil who had been part of the original group. Paula played Irish music on the tin whistle to perfection.
The craic was ninety and the food was just what I needed. Martina had told me earlier that she loved whiskey. Music to my ears!
After dinner myself and Martina found a bar that had half decent whiskey. We opted for a Jamiesons, and laughed as the young bar girl just poured two doubles for us and charged the equivalent of one back home.
We had a nice wee chat about our lives and the Camino, before heading back to the others in the albergue.
Fromista
Burgos – Fromista 60km on bike.
Today I have hired a bike for three days to do the Mesata. The Mesata is a 180km trail that is mainly on flat exposed land. Almost desert like. As I cannot be exposed to the sun for too long due to my medications, the cycling will only take me three days rather than 7 if I was walking it. Less exposure.
First I got up and joined the gang for breakfast at the cafe. I could see that most people were in a downbeat mood. We said our farewells and promised to keep the WhatsApp group open to keep in touch.
I finally collected my bike at about 11am and Oscar at the bike shop was a gem in getting me sorted. Unfortunately I had to have my walking stick āBarneyā cut in three to fit. Barney has guided me everywhere from day one in St Jean. I was looking for walking sticks when I seen this peculiar wooden one for 13 yoyos- 13 is my lucky number. What was peculiar was that one one side of the handle looked a bit like a snake. I had great fun setting this stick on peoples shoulders and scaring the life out of them as they walked. Hopefully I can get Barney fixed back together again when I get home.
Anyway, off I set out of Burgos at a nice pace and followed the yellow arrows of the Camino. I got my first 10k done in no time at all. This was great for me as I was cruising along the paths quite quickly. Then came the first hill. A big climb of about 100m. No bother getting up in working the gears. Coming down this at a quick speed the adjuster on my front wheel came loose and I had lost full control. I managed to get the bike stopped and fixed the wheel back in place. Quite a hairy moment.
I stopped at 30km in Hontanas for some grub and an ice cold beer. Then came the beast!! Alto de Mostelares. A 200m steep climb up a gravel track. I managed to cycle a third of this then I couldnāt continue any further. I got off and pushed the bike to the top of the hill and probably lost 2 Litres of sweat doing so. A nice gradual descent got me back on track and blasting the km through the flat terrain.
I passed the ruins of San Anton and made my way along a river towards Fromista
I arrived in Fromista at 6pm and got to my albergue. There is a serious lack of life in this town. Hardly anywhere open and only a handful of locals walking about. Got myself some bread, meat and cheese and made myself a bocadillo for supper.
Another 60km to Sahagun tomo. I hope my bum is a little less sore tomo. š
Sahagun
Fromista – Sahagun 60km
2nd day on the bike and thankfully no hill climbs today. I got up at 7am and got the worst excuse for a breakfast you could ever get in the albergue, and got on the road at 7:45. Travelling at roughly 20km/hr I didnāt stop until I got to Ledigos where I got my proper breakfast of tortilla, a croissant, a cafe con leche, a banana and then got a glass of Coke.
I flew on to Carrion de los Condes. A slightly bigger town but again, not much to see other than the usual.
Eventually reached Terradillos de los Templarios. A former stronghold of the Knights Templar. I was excited to get here as it represents the halfway point on the Camino and I was interested to see remains of the Knights Templar buildings. Nothing remains only a cathedral! Very disappointing. Surely you have to have some benchmark on the halfway point, and why not have at least a little museum to provide information on the Knights Templar.
Apparently there is a 13th century crucifix in this church and holds a pilgrim mass at certain times. JUST OPEN THE DOORS AND SHOW ME THE CRUCIFIX!!
Eventually pressed on and reached Sahagun. Found my Hostal (San Juan) and was pleasantly surprised to see such a lovely clean place. Got my own room for the night and private bathroom which I will need to give myself a good grooming. My nails are the length of Jamie Leis cat Shadow, you could strike a match on my face with the grizzly beard and you could cook bacon on the oil substance that is sunscreen.
Had a quick dander round the streets, got my washing done in the laundromat. I had time for a cerveza mas grandƩ in the bar opposite the laundromat while waiting.
Just doing a short walk of 10km tomorrow to Brecianos Del Real Camino. This will set me back on the planned schedule for the final stroll towards Santiago.
Waiting now patiently on the lazy locals to get up from their siesta and do a decent days work. Then get some grub.
Walking is the great adventure, the first meditation, a practice of heartiness and soul primary to humankind. Walking is the exact balance between spirit and humility.
Gary Snyder – The practice of the wild.
Bercianos Del Real Camino
Sahagun – Bercianos Del Real Camino 10km
John Wayne Day
I left the bike for the rental company to collect and enjoyed a lovely stay in the Albergue San Juan. Last night I enjoyed a couple of generous whiskeys while watching the football.
I woke up this morningā¦just ouch! My hips and butt were just aching. I could hardly get up. Had I been sexually assaulted by a bunch of gorillas?? Certainly felt like it.
I got my self together and had a shower. I bought a bar of soap last night as my gel had run out. The smell of it is so addictive. I think Iāll now order it in bulk.
Grabbed a quick brekkie and started todays walk. John Wayne would have been so proud of me copying his bow-legged stroll out of town.
Few nice things to see at the edge of town before setting out on a long straight path.
Most people on the Camino complain that this long stretch of 180km called the Mesata, is boring and pretty much the same thing the entire way. Well I loved it, and thats all that matters!!. With Whitesnakesā āHere I Go Againā roaring in my ears, I was in my element. 19*C, blue skies, no wind and little birdies singing their song along the way.
I had wrapped up in sun blocking clothes and my trusty oul sun cap. Takin no chances as tomorrow I have 6 hours of walking to my next stop. 30km. I took some photos along this long straight path, and only really spoke to one Italian man who asked to get his photo taken. He then returned the favour, said āBuen Caminoā, and we headed on with our own journeys.
I seen some strange metal tubed archway on the path. I donāt know the reason for this as itās nowhere near a town or place. It looked like the remains of the tin man from the Wizard of Oz. āFollow the yellow dirt road, follow the yellow dirt roadā. (Or something along those lines.)
Got to my hostel in a little under two hours and found it to be a nice wee place indeed. It only holds 20 people, so it was easy to get a shower and get food. Each of the bunks have a curtain to pull over which all the best albergues have. Early to bed tonight to get prepared for this big one tomorrow.
Absolutely nothing else in this town only a small shop and a bar or two. Took some photos of the best bits. ā¤µļø
Mansilla Mayor
Bercianos Del Real Camino – Mansilla Mayor
30km walked today, fresh as a daisy and with a spring in my step. The first 7k to El Burgo went very quick. I got talking to a Swedish girl called Daniella who had done the Camino 10 years ago and had planned to come back for more. She said it hadnāt changed much apart from the numbers of folk doing it which had exploded this year.
Stopped at a cafe for breakfast. Tortilla and coffee as usual. Quickly moved on to tackle the 13km to Reliegos.
A lunch stop in Reliegos seen me meet up with Pete and Megan from New Zealand, and Don from Australia. We had a good chat about the upcoming Rugby World Cup. Pete was quietly confident but was a little worried about England. First pint of the day!
Another 7km took me to Mansilla de las Mullas. The walk today was made much easier by walking to the beat of AC/DC and Queen on the headphones which I have used only once before on the camino.
I arrived at my albergue and was warmly received by the hospitalero and shown my room. Itās a lovely little room which would have impressioned well in an old western movie – No more John Wayne I promise!
Tomorrow I get up early-ish and walk the 13km to LĆ©on. I have two days booked in this city as I have a couple of things to do and see. I may be meeting up with some of the people I met on the first evening in Roncesvalles! Adios amigos!
LeĆ³n
Mansilla Mayor – LeĆ³n 17km
Today was all about getting the job done and getting to the wonderful city of LeĆ³n.
I had dinner and drinks with Roger and Sue from Alberta and had some good conversation. Sueās knee seems to be completely banjaxed so they are getting a taxi to LeĆ³n to hopefully see a physio.
After a lovely send off from the albergue hospitalero – (I called her Mama as she couldnt do enough for me, carrying toast and coffee and a big lump of madeira cake to me as I sat for breakfast), with big hugs and blessings, I set on my way out of the village to join the camino again.
I soon met up with Pete and Megan from New Zealand who I met yesterday and we walked a few miles together to the next town. I stopped for a drink whilst they walked on. Its becoming a recurring fight with myself to avoid a pint of beer at about 10am every morning as I walk through new towns. The locals, when they get their lazy butts outa bed, seem to just sit outside and drink all sorts. In the cafeās there is always a couple of beer pumps condensing in the heat, and always one dam biker who is sat on his fat lycra covered ass drinking a beer at an outside table. Yeah you need it fat chops! How about switching off that wee electric motor and actually cycling for once!! (Rant over)
There wasnāt much to see until I got to LeĆ³n and boy did it impress. A very busy city, immaculately clean and spilling over with historic buildings.
I checked into the hotel, got a lovely shower and headed out to do a bulk of washing after having to wear a stinky shirt today. I looked like some dirty oul scouser, sorry, scrounger walking into this la-de-da hotel.
I popped up the street in the hunt for the Cathedral. This place was buzzing. Stag and hen parties, locals sitting having the craic at tables with fancy umbrellas. I came to a big square where the locals gather for some entertainment every weekend. This seems to be a great trend in Spain where all the locals love getting together and cooking food, playing music and watching the children play. We could learn a thing from these guys. No fighting, arguing, selfishness or command, just togetherness and fun.
I eventually caught site of the cathedral spire and followed the streets towards it. Wow! What a building. Iām definitely doing the tour tomorrow.
I sat outside a bar and had a spittle of vino tinto just marvelling at the architecture of such a building that was first built in the 13th century. I always love gothic styled buildings, and this one was dreamworthy. The Cathedral is open tomorrow morning so Iām definitely going to have a look inside it.
Also on my list for tomorrow is the LeĆ³n Museum which has a history of the camino pilgrimage which should be interesting. Also a very nice building.
Didnāt do much tonight as after a very hot day hitting 29*C, its now raining. Iāll just lounge in my room with a bottle of Ā£4.95 red wine that costs me Ā£9 back home š³š·
Have to check in at another hotel tomorrow with a spa in it. Might see if I can get a leg and back massage. On Monday its back to the nitty gritty clocking off the final 300km of this adventure. šŖš»š
Leon – Day 2
Leon – Leon 3km (trying to find where I am staying)
So today was a rest day, so I got up at 8am and got a generous breakfast in my hotel but half way through this Spanish girl starts blowing her nose continuously. Now, everybody has to blow their nose but fuck me how much snotters have ye got up there. I was trying to eat a Tortilla (pastry filled with eggs and spuds) and all I could taste was snot. I moved quickly on to my americano and a mini croissant followed by a small glass of delicious fruit. Snot face was still in full action. Her father was barking at her in Spanish but I can imagine it was something like, āgo outside and blow your nose properly you disgusting little girlā.
Drama over, I checked out of my room and had polished off a litre of a water bottle from last night. After doing the tour of the cathedral I stopped at a bar I had the red wine at yesterday. They were really busy and were pretty ignorant with the cups and saucers in preparation. The Spanish lady grunted at me āque quiresā which means āwhat do you wantā, so I pointed out which drink I wanted, a Liptons lemon iced tea. She slammed the drink on the counter and carried on with her orders. I was aftaid to ask how much so just set 3 yoyos on a plate for them. If it was more, call the fucking police!! I went outside and sat on a stool and took my drink. Five minutes later the lady came out and brought me a big basket of Doritos with mayo and a spicy sauce. I tried to explain I had left money for her and she turned and smiled and said āde nadaā. No problem. I think she appreciated my patience and gratitude. It always helps to put yourself in another persons shoes and appreciate their stresses. Only when you do that, can you try to help the situation.
Enough with that philosophical shite. Anyway I visited the Cathedral and took about 100 photos. Iām only going to show you a select few. The place was amazing but maybe not as emotional as Pamplona cathedral. I said a wee prayer for all of my family and friends who have some problems in their lives and paid a euro to light up half a dozen candles.
After the litre of water, two coffees, a Lipton ice tea and a tour of the cathedral I was bursting for the loo. I thought Iād try and check in to my hotel early and go there. As the receptionist was checking my passport and stamping my credencial I was doing a merry dance trying to hold it in. Got my key, into a lift that took forever and run around a labrynth to get to my room, I opened the door and headed straight for the bathroom. Undone the buckles and aaaggghhh! Relief! About ten seconds in I realised I was pissing in the bidet and the toilet was behind the door. Bursting out in belly laughs I struggled to keep it all in the bidet. When finished I wiped up the spilled stuff with toilet paper and what did I do? Yeah threw it in the bidet! š Obviously I transferred this to the toilet before flushing. What a start!
When I got settled into the room I decided to walk around town and look for some new trainers as my Hokaās are starting to wear out and cause foot minor problems. I was walking two minutes when I heard someone say āGrahamā. I looked around and it was Kylie from USA. I met Kylie on the second day in Roncesvalles at dinner. We had met up a couple of times on trail and I was very happy to see her. We went for a meal and had a good oul chit-chat and polished off a bottle of red wine. When we were leaving there was very loud thunder and heavy rain. Kylie asked the bar staff, who were shutting up for siesta, if we could stay and have one more drink and they kindly obliged. We made a run for it after the drinks and got back ok.
I went to my hotel room and slept for a bit. Tried watching Man Utd on my phone but I really canāt be bothered keeping up to date with unimportant stuff anymore. The Camino has taught me a lot of things about life, and I have taken good note of the things that really matter. Immediate family, close friends who support you always, and having a roof over your head. My family know that I hate gardening, but I have found a hunger to make my home the best it can be, like so many of the buildings I have seen on this journey. I canāt wait to go back home and enhance my own home.
I went to a local brewery called The Four Lions in LeĆ³n. They make a good selection of craft beers. The first one I tried was a scotch ale called Founders Dirty Bastard – kinda like me coming into town yesterday. Its a very heavy ale based on the Oat stout ales we get in Ireland. Then it was a double IPA called a Marabunta. Very very nice. In fact so nice I stumbled away from the brewery and used Google Maps to locate my hotel just 75yards away.
Thats all today folks. I hope you have enjoyed my adventure so far and its all grinding it out from here on in. šŖš»š¤Ŗ
Hospital de Ćrbigo
Leon – Hospital de Ćrbigo 30km
Before you all start crapping yourselves, No Iām not in hospital, its just the name of the place. I probably should be in hospital because of the distance Iāve covered and the amount of beer, wine and croissants Iāve ate, but no Iām lying in my sleeping bag with a full tummy and writing this damn thing!
Today I left LeĆ³n at 7:45 and had to walk about 5k to get out of the city. I was sad to leave this city as it is a wonderful under-rated place. I was supposed to stay at the Parador hotel in Leon which is the big fancy hotel that the cast of āThe Wayā, stayed at near the end of their journey. Leading up to last week it was Ā£200 to stay at this parador for one night. Checking at the start of this week it had jumped to Ā£375. One thing Iāve learned on this Camino is that we donāt really need luxury. A sleep in a well run albergue can be just as rewarding with the people you meet and the excellent hospitality provided. So on seeing the price hike, I just decided no. That amount cannot be justified on a pilgrimage or in real life.
So on I walked and got a bloody good look at the place instead. The walk today is still part of the Meseta and is a long flat road that will test the weak minded. I stopped at a stall along the way taking donations for drinks and foods and got my picture taken in a cardboard cut out of an ancient pilgrim. I met up with Pete and Megan from New Zealand again and walked with them for a while.
Going through La Virgen del Camino, I thought Iād better call in and see the Santurio de la virgin del camino – a fancy chapel in other words. It was a beautiful building.
We reached the village of San Miguel Del Camino where there was a nice little cafe I decided to stop in. I hoped that I could have a San Miguel in San Miguel Del Camino. Not a chance! The best I got was a small tin of Estrella which is quite nice so it softened the blow.
I met Kylie again and walked with her a little while before I stuck some music on and got into my rhythm. With about 7km to go I felt a hotspot on my heal and stopped in a cafe to take a look at it. Two blisters on my left heel. I only get blisters when the soles of my shoes are done. It creates an imbalance and leads to friction on a part of my foot. I quickly wrapped it up and put some moleskin tape on it- great for blisters.
On my way again it was a slow 7k to Hospital de Orbigo. When I finally got there I was delighted to see such a delightful looking town that seemed to be preparing for a festival or parade.
Got checked into my albergue (Albergue San Miguel a recurring theme today – and No I didnāt actually get a San Miguel) which was a nice little place with a good warm shower. I got my dinner in a restaurant called Los Angeles. A three course peregrino meal with a bottle of red wine for 14 yoyos. I shared the wine with a fellow peregrino Shaun from Oxford. We had a good chat and then went back to our albergues for the night.
Its going to be a slow 20km to Astorga tomorrow but hopefully I will be able to get new trainers and get back to pain free walking. Buenas Noches! š
Astorga
Hospital De Ćrbigo – Astorga 18km
I got up and got out the door at 7am this morning to get into Astorga early – well before the Spanish all went for their siesta. I wanted to get a new pair of walking shoes for the rest of this journey.
No breakfast available at that time so I just tucked into my reserves of mixed nuts and an apple. After about 10km we came across a wee hut offering all kinds of foods for a donation. The guy that runs this is an absolute star. Chopping up pineapple and watermelon for all passers by as well as having a good selection of cereals and yoghurts. I reached into my money pouch and give him all the change I had- about Ā£6 worth and helped myself to some delicious fruit and a bit of cake.
With carbs onboard this helped me plough on over the rest of the road to Astorga. Crossing an absoloute monstrous pedestrian bridge over a railway, and a river called River Twirto! (I wonder if the streams that lead into this river are called little twirtos or wee twirtos?? š¤)
I got into Astorga shortly after 11am and headed straight for the pilgrims trekking shop in town. I loved the look of the backpack sitting outside. It would just about hold everything I had wanted to bring on this journey.
Anyway, I got a new pair of hiking shoes and because I had to get ol Barney chopped in three to take home, I got a cheap set of walking sticks for the big climbs ahead in Galicia. The shoes are a brand I have not really heard of but from walking around town in them, they will ace the job in hand.
I was the first to check in at my albergue for tonight, Albergue San Javier. An old building with a few floors and has all that is needed. Great shower, wee snooze, some stretches and sorting the feet out, I headed into town to get grub for tomo. Of course I had to have my daily beer in the scorching sun, then went to Rioās āIrishā bar for dinner. Whilst the food and the Guinness were excellent, I found something a little out of place in a traditional foreign āIrish barā – see if you can spot it š¤£
Back to the albergue to relax for a while, then I headed to tour the local Cathedral. Another jaw dropping cathedral which Iāll share a few photographs.
One of Gaudiās works nearby, and every bit as amazing as La Sagrada in Barcelona is the Palacio de Gaudi Astorga. I didnāt get inside this but took a moment to admire this masterpiece. Itās like something from a Disney film.
Iām lying on my bed now looking out the balcony window at the torrential rain and listening to the roaring thunder that appears in Spain every so often. Might just hit the hay early tonight again and get an early start tomorrow. Another 20km to Rabanal Del Camino. When I get there tomorrow I will be down to 236km to go. Bang on schedule for second week of June finish. šš» Nitey Nite!
Rabanal Del Camino
Astorga – Rabanal Del Camino 21km
Step by step, town by town, crushing the km down and down. Roughly 237km to Santiago. šŖš»
An early 7am start today again to get the km done before the sun starts melting me. Quite a walk out of Astorga but not as bad as Pamplona or LogroƱo. This is the last day of La Meseta. We start to climb the mountain out of the desert area and get back to nice twisty paths among forests and wooded areas.
I actually enjoyed the Meseta, it give me a little time to think about this journey and the people Iāve met along the way. Whilst I have made some great friends and had plenty of laughs, Iāve realised that when it comes down to the bare bones, everyone has their own plan for life, and everyone (including myself), although not always intentional, will do whatever it takes to try to make that plan work. I have met some people that I really enjoyed being with, but due to my plans or theirs, we have had to separate on this journey. Some we meet again for a short period, but on this journey, most are just passing strangers helping each other when we can. I donāt want this Camino to end as I love it soo much but equally it would be nice to get back home to family and friends and try to implement the things in life that I have learned here.
O.K. – about todayās trail, pretty much long straight roads for the majority of the distance stopping in a few villages for food and rest breaks. Most notable was a few teepees in view on way through El Ganso. – This is actually an albergue where each teepee holds 10 beds. Its called The Indian. Further on into this village there is the Cowboy House/Bar, with a church and an overgrown football field. Maybe the Cowboys once played the Indians in a penalties at dawn kinda shootout!
The pathway went on in the scorching sun for miles. I didnāt meet too many people I knew today. Which was ok as I wanted to walk at my own pace breaking in the new shoes.
The closer I got to Rabanal, the more the pathway changed again to trails in the woods which I love. Passing a few horny bulls again, I eventually got to my albergue La Senda. Checked in, cleaned up and went down to the bar for a beer and a big steakburger. I met a Swedish guy called Bengt who I shared a dorm with last night and we had a few beers together. We were then joined by a 57yr old Florida lady, Tonya, who I thought was a bit crazy but it turned out she had been very emotional at one stage yesterday and begged Bengt for a hug randomly. I would say he was more than happy to give her a hug. š¤Ø
I went up to the town for a walk to get a big bottle of water and found a small chapel run by monks. I took a wee dander inside, and found it to be a real comforting little place. Nothing fancy, just the basics and kept tidy. I see more and more of this every day on this Camino. Everyone outside the major cities seem to survive within their means and do not care for appearance or status, and most are content.
Going for a walk to the supermarket now again to get some grub for tomorrows climb up to Cruz de Fero, where I place a stone (That Jamie Lei kindly prepared for me), at the cross. This signifies a release of burdens and the start of a new life.
I will stop for the night at Molinaseca before going to Villafranca Del Bierzo on Friday.
Buenas Noches! š„±š¤
Molinaseca
Rabanal Del Camino – Molinaseca 25km
Iām writing todayās update with a full bottle of vino tinto in me. It was a hard day and my feet are still aching, despite massaging them with massage cream and a massage ball. Hopefully they will be alright by the morning for another 30km walk to Villafranca Del Bierzo.
The first 12km today was mostly uphill climbing to a height of 1515m. On the way I passed the Cruz de Ferro. I got a lovely french lady to video me walking up to place the stone on the existing pile. Jamie Lei had swapped me this stone for one I had found at the top of my local mountain Bessy Bell. Jamie Lei had painted this stone when she was younger and and wrote a message on it. āWhoever finds this stone, Well done!ā I had carried this stone all the way from home to place at this special cross. By placing the stone at this cross, you are getting rid of all your lifeās burdens and moving onto a new life.
On the way down through the mountain paths (an almost 900m descent over 10km) I stopped in a town called El Acebo for a cold beer. Nice wee town and the bar man told me he had been in Sligo for the last year and wanted to return.
As I got further down the hill I noticed a tree with a pair of boots hanging off it. Wonder if the person who left it there went down barefoot? Bloody sasquatch!
This trail although generally descending, also had some surprising ascents too. A bit like a rollercoaster. You have to go up higher to get a speedier, or steeper in this case, descent.
When I eventually got to Molinaseca it was all worth the fight. The town was beautiful with kids playing in the crystal clear river and a spectacular little town to walk through to my albergue at tbe end of town.
I hung about in my room for a while doing my washing and sipping on some red wine I had bought in the shop. I got a lovely warm goats cheese salad for dinner and then went back to my room for some sleep.
Tomorrow will be a long day with 30km in store. I have booked myself into a luxury parador in Villafranca Del Bierzo. So lets see what that place is like, if I ever make it!! Nighty!
Villafranca Del Bierzo
Molinaseca – Villafranca Del Bierzo 30km
Well I didnāt walk 30km today. In fact I barely walked at all. I woke up and got my gear all packed up and put my shoes on. Deep down I knew something wasnāt right. My legs were a bit jelly like and were not going to take me 5km never mind 30!! To add to that, despite putting on suncream about 5 times yesterday, I still got my face and neck sunburnt. The sweat of the mountain climb must have washed it off. Because of my kidney transplant medications I am more prone to skin diseases from the suns rays. I always wear good sun protecting clothes when out hiking, but the face is always gonna be exposed. Todays walk would have taken a minimum of 6 hours, so I called the walking off for that reason mainly.
I wanted to walk the entire camino on foot, but after cycling for two days, which I hated, I donāt mind taking this day off completely. I have to listen and protect my body.
So I got a taxi from Molinaseca to Ponferrada, mainly to see the Knights Templar Castle on the edge of town. What a site. It was not open to visitors at this time but I was still very impressed.
After this I went to a laundrette to dry the clothes I had washed last night, and who did I meet no other than the Italian dude who I shared a room with two nights ago. The fella canāt speak a word of English or Spanish so we communicate with hugs and high 5ās. We shared the dryer to save money and then set off on our own ways.
I made my way to the bus centre and was waiting in line for the ticket machine. Some assistant was helping everyone with their tickets but she was prolonging the situation. Having a conversation with everyone instead of just getting the damn tickets sorted. There were two machines and everyone just presumed that the second one was out of operation, until an older Spanish man jumped the queue to give it a go. Well he got on the machine and started pressing buttons and it looked like it was about to work for him, but then a warning came up on the screen and he couldnāt proceed any further. āComputer says Nooo!ā. So he had to go to the back of our queue which had grew by a further four people. To say he was frustrated was an understatement. Yet ol blethermouth was still yapping on and holding the show up. She blethered on so much I missed the bus I wanted to get and had to wait another hour for the next one. š
I eventually got my ticket and had a coke in the cafe. Then a team of Spanish ladies came in with a wee baby and the place became as noisy as a ladies night at a chippendale show! Bloody hell! Why do you have to shout so much! I drunk up my coke and got the hell outa there!
The bus came and took me to Villafranca Del Bierzo where I checked in at a Parador hotel for a day of relaxation. It wasnāt anywhere near the best hotel Iāve stayed in, even on this trip, but it was quiet and spacious with great food and wine.
I took a short walk up the town to get some essentials for the walk tomorrow and met my Swedish friend Bengt having a beer at the top of the town. I ordered a PiƱa Colada and joined him for a while. Turns out we are staying at the same albergue tomorrow again so we arranged to have a couple of pints there.
This town is nice but nothing spectacular. I only took a couple of photos of some of the highlights of the place.
Tomorrow I walk 26km with another steep hill climb towards O Cebreiro. I have no more aches or pains so shouldnāt take too long to get there. Good night!
Laguna De Castilla
Villafranca Del Bierza – Laguna De Castilla 26km
Back on my feet again today and feeling much better. First 3km were hard for me but after that the motor kicked in and I was cruising along. Much of the way today was along roadside so not a lot to see, but I did catch some nice views
Walked to the edge of a town and seen some horses being walked along the street. A female peregrino got herself mounted on a horse with the help of the owner, or should I say struggle! The poor horse was silently screaming inside and did not look comfortable at all with the woman on top as well as her backpack. Needless to say it wasnāt long til I saw the woman back walking on the trail.
I stopped at a cafe where Jonathon from Taiwan was relaxing with a coffee. We had a quick chat before he moved on. I noticed he had left his water bottle behind so took it to him further up the trail. The trail suddenly got real steep. The new walking sticks were put to good use as I relentlessly marched up the mountain to the alberge La Escuela. Just below O Cebreiro. I met Bengt from Sweden along the way and later at the bar where we had a few pints together with a German called Constantine. We all watched the FA cup together on my phone.
We all went together for dinner with another South Korean and also met a couple from South Africa who told me great things about the Fisterre and Muxia trip I have planned the day after I reach Santiago.
Iām really enjoying the company I have on this last stage of the Camino. Theres too many to mention, but we keep meeting up at various points and we all like a good beer/wine or two.
There seems to be a herd of cows/bulls roaming about freely at the albergue giving the odd moo. Or that could be the albergue owners father who has been drinking since 10am this morning and is handing out tapas to everybody who comes within sight of him. š¤£š¤£ I think the son is also a little tipsy as he keeps charging for beers and then forgetting to pour them š. Hi boy, wheres me beer ye cunt ye!
Its bed time now and Bengt is lying like a dead man in the adjacent bed. Might give him a poke with me walking stick to see if he reacts š¤Ø
Tomorrow we have a wee climb to O Cebreiro then its all downhill to Triacastella. Roughly 24km. Should only take about 4-5 hours. Including breakfast time and a beer stop.
Still canāt get me head round goin to bed before 10pm. Its light as day outside and Iām wrapped up in my sleeping bag trying to write this before I fall asleep! Gute Nacht everyone! š
Triacastela
Laguna De Castilla – Triacastella 24km.
Today I woke up about 6:30 am and everyone in my dorm was getting ready to go. I lay there for another half hour til most of them had cleared.
Got a bite of breakfast in the cafe downstairs and set off on the 24km trek to the top of the mountain and then all downhill to Triacastela. we crossed into the province of Galicia which is a much more colourful place with lush green forests and clear blue skies.
I caught up with KH Kim who was in my dorm last night and we walked together all day discussing all sorts.
It was an easy enough climb to O Cebreiro but the downhill never ended until we got to Triacastella.
I got into Triacastela about 1pm and checked in a super little albergue called Atrio. Got cleaned up and went to get a meal at Restaurant Esther where I got a pasta salad and a steak and chips. Yummy!
Then I went looking for a couple of beer and bumped into a bunch of girls Iāve met in different places along the way. Then the Australian guy I met in the laundrette in Astorga joined us along with about 5 or 6 others. We had quite a few drinks and some folk had a wee toke on some waccy baccy š¤£ It was so funny watching them all āfloatā back in to us with their big cheesy grins!
Finished up about 10pm and went back to my room and fell asleep while writing this!
Just 18km tomorrow down another hill to Sarria where its expected to get a whole lot busier on the Camino. 5 more days should do it! Checking out!
Sarria
Triacastela – Sarria 19km
After last nights little session, I was a little tired in the morning. My accommodation last night was so cosy. Like a little cave and I didnāt want to get up out of the comfy bed. But I did, about an hour later than I usually got up. I said bye bye to my cosy little room and got on the trail.
A couple of km up the hill and first photo opportunity. I wasnāt that impressed with it but everyone was gettin selfies and a few pro photographers were taking ages setting up different lighting positions and settings on their big show off cameraās. But heres the result of another fellow Irishmans attempt at professional photography. I think Eamonn done a good job to be fair.
Rolling green countryside and beautiful pathways seen me get to Sarria and start searching for my accommodation. After half an hour walking through this small city I found the Albergue. And it was closed! At least for another hour. So off I went to the laundrette to clean a big bag of clothes. I stripped off the shirt and socks I had on and fired them in too and sat there semi-naked for 45mins while the washed and dried. Must be a done thing on the camino as no-one batted an eyelid.
The further I got into Sarria, the more disappointed I was with the place. After being spoilt in all the cities and larger towns on this Camino, this place was an absolute shithole full of rude people. I met a fella called Bill from North Carolina and we had dinner together and a couple of pints. We both ordered the same pizza and after about half an hour later one pizza came out and the waiter apologized as he said the other one had āburnt to the groundā! We shared the first pizza and then awaited the second. It wasnāt the best pizza either but foods food.
Went for a walk around town to see if there was anything worth looking at but no. This place is as good as Larne! They might even have their own inbreds living there too š¤
Tomorrow I walk 24km to Portomarin. Hopefully it will be a little better than this place. I swear, even the dead western type hamlets I have passed through to date are much more pleasant than this place.
Wan more pint then bed! See ya š»
PortomarĆn
Sarria – PortomarĆn 23km
Didnāt get much sleep last night due to some lanky American dude getting up at 5am to do 2 hours of yoga and grunting like a tortured pig. You got 23km to walk today brutha take it fuckinā easy!!
Got started the walk and had a bit of a climb in the first part of the day. It was very noticeable that there were quite a few Spanish groups starting the last 100km of the camino.
Lots of young girls in tight lycra speeding ahead with all the excitement in the world. Manys a man may have had a heart-attack if he were on this trail. I, on the other hand, just overtook them all casually as I was on a mission to get finished up early today. š
After about 13km I passed the iconic 100km mark. It was great to see this as it pales in significance to the distance I have already travelled. The newcomers where easy to spot as all their gear was very clean and didnāt stink. I felt good to be able to leave them all eating dust as I deployed terminator mode and pushed past them all. Hasta luego bitches!
Some beautiful sights along this trail that reminds me so much of the trails at home.
To get to PortomarĆn you have to cross a very long bridge with quite a drop to the river. The bridge must be about 200m long.
I crossed it a bit nervously. I was nervous only because I didnāt want to drop my phone in the river whilst taking photos of the views from the bridge.
When over the bridge there is about 50 steps to climb followed by a very steep cobbled surface. Luckily my albergue was right at the top of this.
Got settled in, washed and up for a couple of pints when a group of Irish teenagers gathered at the albergue. I got talking to one of them and they explained they were doing the last 100km for children in respite. What a great idea.
Later I met up with Jonathan and Bengt for a few pints. These guys are great company and we have many laughs together. Bengtās wife keeps calling him and talking for ages until he just hangs up on her! š¤£š¤£ Bengt is a very relaxed man but there is only so much a relaxed guy can take. š
We had a good ol night despite having to remind Bengt that there was four more days to Santiago. Not two!! All of us just want to keep walking on this Camino forever but equally miss our families. In my opinion the Camino has changed me a lot, and this experience will only make me a better person in āreal lifeā. Hasta maƱana!
Palais De Rei
Portomarin – Palais De Rei 25km
Got up early and got out of town about 7:15am. I liked Portomarin. A nice little town with lots of restaurants and albergues. But the mission is on to finish in Santiago on the tenth of June.
It was pouring outside for the first two hours of walking. I had a long-sleeve travel shirt on with a poncho over. It was so hot also and by the time I got to my first stop of the day for breakfast, my shirt was soaked through with sweat and rain. I had to change this to a technical shirt for the rest of the day.
My breakfast was a bit strange to say the least. It was a fry on the menu but I got two fried eggs, five frankfurters and a half plate of chips- at 9:30 in the morning?? My good ol friend Mr Cholesterol will be grinding things to a halt. But it was delicious and set me in the right mood to plough on at this miserable day.
I met up with Bengt after about 13km and walked with him to Palais de Rei. We stopped for a large freshly squeezed orange juice at a cafe and took the shoes off to let our feet breathe. Everyones feet at this stage are constantly hurting. I had applaused myself for only taking two paracetamol this whole journey so far, but I had to take some today as I wasnāt sure if I could manage the walk today. Well, the paracetamol may well have been magic mushrooms as they done squat all for the pain in my feet. I guess Iāll just have to get through this little pain tunnel for the next few days. Despite massaging my feet every night and applying muscle rub when they got extra sore, I guess there is only so many miles you can walk before you have to mentally block out the pain. This Camino challenge does hurt in many ways and you gotta take the rough with the smooth. Luckily the smooth outweighs the rough by far.
Arrived at my albergue Zendoira and got my bunk for the night. My bed support was creaking away so I waited til closing time to ask for another bed and got one.
Got my washing done in the laundrette and had a beer in the bar next door while the machine was spinning.
Then I met up with Bengt and Jonathan again for dinner. I decided to try the Galician delicacy Pulpo (Octopus). I had bits of octopus before in a paella but never had the dish on its own. It was really nice. Delivered in slices on a spicy olive oil and with freshly made bread. We had a couple more pints and called it a night. Tomorrowās walk to Arzua is 2km longer than todays, so gotta get up early again to get the km done in a decent time.
Thats all for tonight Iām afraid. Wish me a pain free journey tomorrow šš»
Arzua
Palas de Rei – Arzua 26km
Well today I was dreading, my feet were aching and I had to do 26km. Yesterday I used my old Hokas for the last 10km and felt great in them with my old blisters all healed up. So I took a chance and put them on to see if I could get 10km done in them at least. WHAT A STUPID TWAT OF A MISTAKE!!
I was flying outa the blocks and feeling good. Iāve made a habit out of walking for two hours in the morning before I stop and get breakfast. I done this but could feel something nagging me just about 500m before I stopped. When I got to the cafe and had a coffee and a chocolate brioche, I pulled off the shoe and sock to investigate. Yep another medium sized blister poking out at me right on the back of the heel. Out with the compeeds and a bit of moleskin tape on top just for that little bit of cushioning. It faired me well to Arzua (with a few beer and another paracetamol- my record is going downhill fast).
Stupidity aside, I enjoyed todays walk. Lots of forest paths and seeing the regular faces passing each other frequently.
Just after I had patched my foot up, I passed a little chapel and went inside for a look. A very simple little chapel but it had a nice feeling about it. I said a little prayer to God to help me on my travels today, took some pictures, and got my second sello on my credencial for today. I think the little prayer helped as I soon met up with Bengt and we entertained each other for the last 15km. Jonathan also met up with us at one point but I canāt remember where he disappeared to at the end.
Along the way I seen a little pink car that I thought was class looking. I think it was one of the first versions of a mini. Bengt and Jonathan admitted they both had modern minis. Bengt had a convertible š¤£š¤£ – Heās such a cool ol dude. I said Iāve always wanted a mini and may look about getting one when I go home. Why not. We only got one life and we have to make the most of it.
As we walked on, there were some more amazing sites apart from the usual picturesque forest paths.
Got to my albergue for the night- Albergue Los Tres Abetos (the three fir trees). Woohoo Iām staying in the fir trees!! Its run by a husband and wife who are very friendly and helpful. At least after a good load of drink š (No not me- I was sober at this stage).
I just went to dinner on my own tonight as the heavens had opened with a lot of thunder. Not many pilgrims were venturing out tonight. From what I seen of Arzua, there wasnāt a lot to do anyway.
So in my silk liner now in bed writing this whilst a 6ā4ā blonde Dutch woman is snottering and sneezing and coughing all over the place. Shes just laid her head down absolutely ponging of eucalyptus. Coincidentally, we passed a region of the forest today on the way that had eucalyptus plants in it and the smell was just amazing. Pictures of the camino are amazing but they say nothing without the smells and sounds that surround them. Perhaps our big dutch friend got the cold from a Koala in the uppermost parts of a tree?? (Another Plandemic??)
Anyhoo, I have decided that the Hokaās are being left behind tomorrow. I lightened the load yesterday by getting rid of a raggedy looking pair of trousers Iāve had for about 10 years, a sleeping bag that will not be used again- it stunk anyway, the walking sticks that were an absolute calamity waiting to happen as I never used them either, and a few bottles of suncream, rub and soap that I never used either. The bag was much lighter and will be lighter again tomorrow.
Only two days left of this adventure and the party is gonna be epic in the Cathedral square in Santiago. Nearly everyone Iāve met is targeting this Saturday or Sunday. It will be fab to meet up with everyone again before I go home. Night nite!
Pedrouzo
Arzua – Pedrouzo 19km
After a nights kip in the room with the giant dutch girl snorting and sneezing all night, I was last to get up and get packed. It rained very heavily last night and I thought it couldnāt rain much more, but oh no, it poured all morning. I put on some shorts and a technical t-shirt and then a poncho over the lot. Head down and get the km done.
I soon ran into KH and we walked most of the way. I enjoy talking to KH as he is quite intelligent and an absolute gentleman. I also noticed today that he loves to take care of his gear, which is something I have always done. We walked til we met up with Jonathan and Bengt. Before we stopped at a cafe for a beer, and KH walked on. I kind of wanted to walk on with KH just to get the job done but I also like having a beer at this time of day. I pressed on myself after the beer just to get the walking finished for the day. Bengt and Jonathon do not walk as quick as I do so I left them behind.
Not a lot to see today other than the usual pathways and a few other eye-catchers.
I got to O Pedrouzo in good time and went straight to the laundrette to wash my wet stinking clothes. Then checked into my room for the night and got cleaned up. Went out with Bengt, Jonathan and Ted and Sarah from USA for dinner. We went to a nice restaurant called Taste the Way and ordered our starters, when those were finished we attempted to order our main course but were told that it would take a long long time as they only take one table order.
Ted was pretty furious and gave the manager a piece of his mind. We decided to leave and go to a burger bar for our main course. A little french lad working in the cafe took our order. At first I thought he was drunk as he was acting weird and was spilling knives and forks all over the place. Then I realised that perhaps he had some kind of disability and I felt ashamed of myself for thinking otherwise. Quite a bit of drink was taken then we all went to our albergues. I started writing this blog but then fell asleep and woke up at 6am. Time to get up again š. Buenas Noches
Santiago de Compostela
O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela – 18km
I am writing this a day late as I never got a chance to write yesterday. Sooo many people to catch up with.
So I started the day by getting up early and setting off at 7am. 18km to gobble up and get to Santiago asap. Didnāt meet too many people I knew and stopped at a couple of cafeās for food and drink. About 6km to go, my friend Jonathan caught up with me and we walked into Santiago together. As we walked in through the outskirts of the city you could feel the buzz. Suddenly the spires of the Cathedral could be seen in the distance and loads of people were marching towards it.
We walked towards the tunneled entrance to the cathedral square and could hear the bagpipes in full flow. Not too long now.
We finally got there. I looked up at the cathedral and just felt amazed by it all. There were loads of people already in the square with local Spanish groups all singing and marching into the square. This was it. 800km of hiking, sharing dorms with complete strangers from all over the world, attending to injuries and blisters, making friends and leaving them behind to make new friends, searching for accommodation, multiple boozy nights and pure grit to get through each day – all done!!
From speaking to people who had walked from St Jean, most were of the opinion that it was almost an anti-climax to finish. We all enjoyed each others help and company along the way that in fact, I havenāt met anyone who wanted to go home. Most are only going home because they miss their family or have jobs to do.
I went to the Mass at 12pm and really enjoyed the experience. It was mostly in Spanish language but you kinda got the drift. I was exceptionally lucky to witness the Botafumeiro – the spreading of the incense in the cathedral. What a magic experience it really was.
When Mass was over I met a lot of people I knew from various stages including Kylie who had just done the last 100km+ with her husband who had flown out to join her. They are a great couple and of course we had to get one last selfie
About 10 minutes later who did I see but my old pal Bengt, who had got up early and arrived before most. We went to a restaurant and had a fabulous salad and a beer. Then Jonathon joined us too.
We went to get our compostelaās and then left to get cleaned up at our albergues/hotels.
On my way back I heard a crowd shouting my name and looked over- it was another group of married couples just a little older than me, who I had spoke to nearly every day at different stages. They kindly bought me a couple of pints before splitting for dinner. The craic was mighty though with American lady Tonja telling us a story about her knicker accident š¤£š¤£
After getting checked in and cleaned up, I met Bengt at a craft beer bar for a couple of pints of a strong IPA. Then we met Jonathon at an Italian restaurant for pizza.
Everyone feeling exhausted we went to our beds then. Myself and Bengt were booked on a trip to Fisterre (End of the world) and Muxia and had to be on the bus at 9am. Jonathon had already booked his own trip so would not be coming with us. I got back and thought, donāt be a sad-sack, youāve just done 800km, go out and celebrate. So I looked up google for some clubs and found one playing dance music. Spruced myself up and decided to write my blog before I went out. Well that was the end of my party night! I fell asleep writing and woke up at 6am this morning fully clothed on top of the bed. š I always do this!! My wife Marissa used to be angry with me for falling asleep on the living room sofa and then coming to bed at the crack of dawn. Now she just lets me carry on as I do it that often š¤Ŗ
All in all I enjoyed today. To finally reach Santiago in 33 days is good going. If I had to do it again I definitely would not hire a bike. That was just too painful and I hated being a nuisance to the walkers when they had to step aside on the trail to let me past. I would do it at this time of year again but would change about half the gear I had on this camino, and maybe bring a bigger backpack just for comfort of packing things and taking them out. My 33L Osprey Talon pack was superb but it was always so tightly packed and took too much time to pack it correctly.
Iām going to do a page on gear when I get home on Monday. Just some advice on what I have experienced with different gear. Bye for now! š“
Muxia and the edge of the world
I had a trip booked to Fisterre, and Muxia today and had an early-ish start at 9am. Thankfully I didnāt go out last night after all or this could have been a struggle. Bengt had also booked the same trip and we met at my hotel to walk to the pick-up point.
It was great to be sitting in a bus for a day and not having to walk too far, but my legs had an unwanted energy in them and it was difficult to relax them.
First stop was a place called Negriera. I missed the explanation of what it was but it looked interesting and took a few photos.
Next stop was Muxia. This was my main reason for taking the bus trip. The scenery was amazing and I took a good 15minutes to sit on the edge of the rocks and watch the waves.
Muxia, Iām told, was the name of a group of monks who had a chapel in the area many centuries ago. There is a chapel on the rockshore called āSantuario de Virxe de Barcaā I had a look inside and loved the place
St James was trying to teach Christianity to the locals in this area without success, so the Virgin Mary appeared on a āstone boatā to comfort him. There are some stones near the chapel that are said to be the remains of the stone boat. Legend has it that if you walk around the stones 9 times you will be cured of something or other. Well, being brought up as a presbyterian and being told that Mary was a virgin and arrived on shore on a stone boat just didnāt quite convince me to walk around a stone 9 times. Like come on!!! Iāve just walked 800km and admittedly thats probably a little crazy, but I still have half a brain that can help me figure some things out on my own. š¤·š»āāļø
Anyways it was lovely to experience this place. It really is a very tranquil place and yes I did say a wee prayer for my family and friends – something I found giving me a little internal peace on this adventure.
Next stop was Fisterre. A lovely harbour town with lovely expensive cafeās and boats galore belonging to the wealthy. I went searching, without success. for a supermarket in the hope that I could buy an Apple charging lead as I had to borrow one from a German lady in the busy. She was so kind to give it to me but was extra grumpy in demanding it back at this stop. It was a Sunday and there was some kind of festival/march on in the town with fireworks going off left right and centre in broad daylight. It sounded like I was caught in a war-zone and quickly looked around to see if anyone was scattering. Panic over! Keep on eating my expensive pizza!
I met up with Korean Chan, who I walked with several times in the first few weeks. Chan and his girlfriend where having a very adventurous meal of squid or something.
We said our goodbyes and goodwills and back on the bus again to the āedge of the worldā. Cabo Finisterre. Nice location but not a patch on Muxia.
There were a few other stops at a waterfall, an Horreo – (an ancient way of storing animal grain- this one was the longest in Spain at 32m long- and not an animal in sight š¤¦š») and a stop at an old church that had been demolished several times by the French and rebuilt again. It was a nice trip but myself and Bengt kept dozing off to sleep in the bus as the Spanish guy drilled on and on about Galicias history. He asked me a question about the percentage of forestry in Ireland- Do I look like the kinda person who knows every statistic going in my country?? Google it sir and the truth will be told š
We got back at 6:45pm and I texted my Austrian friend Christian to see if he wanted to catch a beer. Christian just finished today and we met up for a couple. It was great catching up on his journey. Heās a very funny guy.
Back to the hotel then to get my stuff ready for going home. The load of my pack decreased by about 2.5kg due to the stuff I left behind. Went to my bed and fell asleep instantly. Tiredness is catching up on me very quickly.
Home Sweet Home!
Monday 12th June 2023 – The end of a Journey
After a great sleep the night before, I got up early and got packed up. I was to help Bengt get to the airport and get his flight home, then wait in the airport for my own flight.
We got a taxi and got checked in at the airport and got some breakfast.
Bengtās departure arrived fairly quick and we said our goodbyeās and agreed to keep in touch. I do hope to meet him again sometime as he is a fantastic person. He just told me over breakfast that he built a business to help mis-directed youthās back into employment and living more peaceful lives. His passion was helping others and he was able to make a rewarding career out if it.
I waited patiently for my boarding gate to appear on the screen. It appeared one hour later and I went to the gate to wait. Then the dreaded āDelayedā, sign came up. I thought not again, after years of getting delayed at Bristol and Luton airports while working for The National Trust and NHBC, it couldnāt possibly happen again and put a spoiler on my homecoming. Thankfully it was only delayed for an hour and then we got going. No more Buen Caminos, cafe con lechĆ©s, bocadillos or tapas, but at least I was going home to my family and my home.
I had a bus ticket for the 3hour journey home my local bus depot in Omagh where my wife and daughter would pick me up. Just out of curiosity I checked the āfindmyipboneā app to see where my family was that day. I seen my wifeās phone moving swiftly towards Aughnacloy. She was coming to Dublin to lift me!! So, I sent her a text saying I was staying in Santiago as I wanted to meet up with someone. Like a gazillionth of a millisecond later my phone was ringing and it was my wife Marissa. I didnāt answer!! I waited a minute and then sent her a text saying I was only joking and that I was just on the plane waiting to go. š¤£š¤£š¤£ I could only imagine the response as either pure rage or panic. Pity I didnāt have dash-cam!
Anyways I got to Dublin airport and was waiting for the doors of the aircraft to open to get moving. I always book a seat at the very back of a plane as you nearly always get in and out of the plane quickly at the rear door. I kept looking back for the door to open then realised there was no rear door and I had to wait for all the rest of the passengers to get out first. Doh!!
I came into arrivals for a lovely little welcome home from my mum, wife, daughter and my good friend Daniel. I was so happy to see them.
When we got home, my dad was waiting at my house for another lovely welcome hug. We had some champagne and cake before going to bed exhausted. š„±š¤
Its great to be home. I will miss everyone Iāve been with on the camino over the last 35 days and hope to keep in touch with as many as possible, but you canāt beat being at home with your family when theyāve all missed you so much.
I hope you have all enjoyed my journey and I hope I didnāt offend anyone with some of the language and comments in my blog – some of which will have to be edited.
This journey has taught me a lot about myself and about other people and values. I hope I can introduce some of these values into my real life and become a much better person. God Bless All ā¤ļø
El Camino de Santiago 